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Pinching tubes :(
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Munzy
Just got myself a wee road bike and loving it to bits - previoulsy had a mtb converted with slicks.

First upgrade was new tires - Conty Ultra Gatorskin 700x25 and put a hole in 2 inner tubes trying to get the tyre back onto the final part of the rim!!!

I'm not ham fisted (a competent mtb mechanic Wink ) but had a puncture last night on a ride and same again - pinched replacement tube leading to much swearing and tears.

Here's my method - please tell me there is knack I'm missing!

1. Remove old tube from wheel
2. pump new tube until it takes round shape
3. put valve through rim and seat tube in tyre
4. begin to put tyre back onto rim starting at valve and working way round in circle
5. (where I'm having trouble) try to make sure seated bead side is sitting in middle of rim and then use tyre levers (tried both Parks and Pedros) gently lever tyre back on . (Can't manage with thubs alone and my thumbs are plenty strong wrestling with DH tyres) this is where I always seem to pinch the tube - I try hard to get the tube inside the tyre before this last bit but there isn't any room.

I've tried letting a bit of air out of the tube to get the last bit in but usually end up pinching it Embarassed

Any tips please?

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Mothyman
am waiting with baited breath...I am having the same problem as you Munzy

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cheehee
I've found leaving tight tyres by the radiator can help. Using good quality inner tubes and being really patient with them.

I'm no expert but I hope that helps Munzy.

Cheehee

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JimmyK
ya want a wee tip...........ok then

My tyres are continental ultra gatorskin 23`s , a right mutha to get back on ......but I put em back on by hand with ease , here is how I do it.

1 Buy a small container of talcum powder
2 Take the tyre and put some talc on the inside
3 Rotate the tyre in hands so as to spread the talc around
4 Take the new tube, inflate it a lttle
5 Put a bit of talc in the palm of your left hand
6 Take the tube and rotate it thru the talc, outer edge of tube.
7 Put the tyre onto one side of the wheel
8 Take partially inflated tube and feed it onto the wheel
9 Get one side of the tyre fully onto the wheel using thumbs.
10 Fully deflate the tube
11 Push the valve upwards a few times to underside of tyre to free it up

Now push the other side of the tyre onto the wheel, the grip lessening function of the talc on the inner section of the tyre combined with the talc on the outer edge of the tube will make this a breeze, its like greasing the contact between inner side of tyre and outer edge of tube,use your thumbs and DO NOT USE TYRE LEVERS, YOU ARE ASKING FOR BOTHER IF YOU USE THOSE FOR RE-FITTING. That troublesome last 8 inches to get back on is made very easy.

follow those steps and you`ll wonder why you ever had trouble. in my saddle bag i keep 2 spare tubes, 1 foldable tyre, 2 x compressed gas refill cartridges and a gas pump, 2 tyre levers for tyre removal only, 1 rim tape and guess what...........a small container of talcum powder !!

Jimmy Very Happy

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john-e-big-guns
I find I can often get the tyre on without levers buy rolling it with palm of my hands...mind I do have hands like shovels.........Campag rims are a differant matter..they always seem a harder too be shod and have to use levers......try rubbing talc/powder on the inside of the tyre/bead before fitting to the rim

No Pain; No Gain;

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Munzy
Thanks for the tips guys Very Happy

JimmyK - likin' your advice mate, sounds like a plan, although don't fancy having to explain a small bag of white powder should the need arise!

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Mothyman
talc it is.....let us know how you get on munzy - and i will too

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JimmyK
you follow the steps i posted for you here and this job will be a cinch for you guys.

Jimmy

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Munzy
10 4 buddy!

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DesWeller
I usually just get the tube + tyre on the wheel, partially inflate, then work my way round the wheel rocking and squeezing the tyre back and forth (along the axis of the wheel) such that I can see the rim tape. That usually takes out any pinches.

Talc does help but unless you're going to carry some in your saddle bag you need a technique that works on the road!

- - -
FCN 4 - BeOne Storm 1.0 (hairy legged roadie)
FCN 8 - The Winter Beast (panniered hybrid)

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Tom Butcher
It should be possible to use levers to get the last bit on without pinching - I'll normally try to fit a tyre without but if I have to use levers I will and I've never pinched a tyre. Maybe try putting a bit more air in the tube before it goes in and once the tyre is on manipulate it a bit with your hands to free up any parts of the tube that may be pinched. Having said that if talc works then may as well use that method.

------------------------
cyclists are all-out body fascists who sneer at mere mortals who can't manage 50 miles up a mountain with their bodies bent over some overpriced handlebars.
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mididoctors
john-e-big-guns wrote:
I find I can often get the tyre on without levers buy rolling it with palm of my hands..


+1

I have have never been defeated by any tyre rim combo using this method

when you get to the last bit of tyre you think needs levers (should be manipulated so its the section opposite the valve) with the wheel section containing the valve in you stomach/lap and you hands at 11.30 and 12.30 on the opposite side..in an alternate fashion roll the tyre on to the rim as thou you are wringing out a cloth... the off side of the tyre is facing you as you do this and the effort is rolling on the tyre away from you onto the rim

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Geoff_SS
When removing a tyre start at the valve. When refitting finish at the valve. This is crucial to fitting any tyre ... and I used to fit my own tyres to the wire wheels of our A-H Sprite as well as to all my motor cycles.

The reason is that the tyre bead wire won't stretch so the only way it will go over the rim is if the opposite side is pushed into the rim well. If you finish opposite the valve then the valve itself stops the bead going into the well.

Even my wife manages to fit most tyres without needing a lever. In extremis she has a VAR tyre lever which has a hook arrangement which allows levering the tyre without touching the inner tube.

Geoff

Old cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster
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mididoctors
Geoff_SS wrote:
When removing a tyre start at the valve. When refitting finish at the valve. This is crucial to fitting any tyre ... and I used to fit my own tyres to the wire wheels of our A-H Sprite as well as to all my motor cycles.

The reason is that the tyre bead wire won't stretch so the only way it will go over the rim is if the opposite side is pushed into the rim well. If you finish opposite the valve then the valve itself stops the bead going into the well.

Even my wife manages to fit most tyres without needing a lever. In extremis she has a VAR tyre lever which has a hook arrangement which allows levering the tyre without touching the inner tube.

Geoff


I wish too disagree 100,000,000,000,000%

but if you can get that to work... Razz

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Mothyman
...it just rained on my talc....

Laughing Laughing

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Geoff_SS
mididoctors wrote:
Geoff_SS wrote:
When removing a tyre start at the valve. When refitting finish at the valve. This is crucial to fitting any tyre ... and I used to fit my own tyres to the wire wheels of our A-H Sprite as well as to all my motor cycles.

The reason is that the tyre bead wire won't stretch so the only way it will go over the rim is if the opposite side is pushed into the rim well. If you finish opposite the valve then the valve itself stops the bead going into the well.

Even my wife manages to fit most tyres without needing a lever. In extremis she has a VAR tyre lever which has a hook arrangement which allows levering the tyre without touching the inner tube.

Geoff


I wish too disagree 100,000,000,000,000%

but if you can get that to work... Razz


Can you be more specific? It's worked for me for over 50 years and all my friends use the same technique. I think I first learned of the method from a motor cycle magazine in the 50s. Moreover I once won a tyre changing competition at my motor cycle club - IIRC it was under 2 minutes.

The only variation I used to employ was fitting the tyre and tube together on very stiff trials competition tyres which were designed to be run at about 6psi on the rear and 4psi at the front and it was difficult to get fingers in to get the valve through the hole in the rim.

Geoff

Old cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster
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mididoctors
Geoff_SS wrote:


Can you be more specific?


ok


Quote:
. When removing a tyre start at the valve.



this means you are using the levers initial side force against the valve as you hook the lever under the bead increased risk of damaging valve (i have been that sorry cyclist)

Quote:
When refitting finish at the valve.


even not using levers rolling the tyre on will risk valve damage... using levers(do not use folks) to put the tyre on near the valve and creating a hard to repair pinch flat next to the valve?

if you lose the valve its over


Quote:
The reason is that the tyre bead wire won't stretch so the only way it will go over the rim is if the opposite side is pushed into the rim well. If you finish opposite the valve then the valve itself stops the bead going into the well.


if the valve is properly located with the tube inside the tyre this notion that the valve will impede the beading is not correct.

finishing opposite the valve reduces the chance of damaging the valve and also ensures that the valve and tube is properly seated.

YMMV

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ride_whenever
Taking off, start at valve and make sure the bead is seated in the rim well right round to the opposite side
lift tyre and tube off in one swift movement with plenty of panache
refitting pop one bead of the tyre onto the wheel
insert valve and fit tube to tyre (don't pre-inflate)
carefully pull the bead over in a symmetric fashion
once you get to the last third check the tube is clear of the rim
use thumbs to lever tyre over bead, keeping slack in well

for new tyres on hard to fit combos, get as much on as you can then leave for the bead to give a little then finish re-fitting.

----------------------------------------------

456!
silly little bike
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mididoctors
I am going to make a video at this rate

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schweiz
+1 for talc
helps you get the tyre on and stops the inner tube fusing with the tyre over time. I carry spare inner tubes that have been coated in talc in a ziploc bag inside my saddle bag so I get the benefit when making rapairs in the field.

+ 1 for starting at the valve and finishing opposite the valve. Less risk of damaging the valve that way and easier to get the tube seated and centred. Just push the valve back up a half centimetre or so, seat the tyre and pull the valve back down. Valve will stay perpendicular to the rim and avoid any stress on the valve joint.

Although I use a single tyre lever to get a tyre off, I rarely use tyre levers to get a tyre on especially with folding tyres. Don't use your thumbs to push the last bit of tyre over the rim, hook your thumbs round the rimb and use your 8 fingers to pull the tyre up and over.

FCN 2

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