|
| Author |
Message |
rapid_uphill Joined: 16 Feb 2008 Posts: 314 Location: Chester
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 1:19 pm |
i have used copper grease, it doesnt stop squeeking if your pads are infected its easier just to get new pads.
|
|
|
Buckled_Rims Joined: 04 Apr 2009 Posts: 114 Location: Geordieland
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 2:41 pm |
OK, this has got me curious, so I striped the pads off on my dinner brake ...er, break I couldn't have put much copper grease on coz there's none left on. I remember, now I can see it, that I place a small dob of grease on each of the 4 pots per caliper as I assumed that maybe the pistons were vibrating, thus causing the squeal.
Here's the photos take on a borrowed camera, sorry for the blur.
and the pads, which show no deterioration.
As said, they've been on since about Easter.
I might be the lucky punk that gotta away!
|
|
|
Didzy2009 Joined: 03 Feb 2009 Posts: 19
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 3:04 pm |
ahh cheers bud! super, still look pretty alive to me, im guessing your performance hasnt dropped any in them other than the general time scale wear and tear....
well ive gotta give it a shot defo now, will try tonight and hopefully report back with good news 
|
|
|
Thelonegroover Joined: 13 Aug 2009 Posts: 60 Location: Skipton, North Yorkshire
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 3:13 pm |
Which is worst, squealing brakes or the chance you might have to buy some new pads? You could always try putting something else behind the pad, like grease proof oven paper!
|
|
|
dave_hill Joined: 16 Oct 2007 Posts: 3638 Location: Burnley, Lancs.
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 7:49 pm |
| ride_whenever wrote: | | hope say no to copper grease on the back of the pads. It's a motorbiking/car thing. |
Copper grease has a far higher melting point than ordinary lithium/molybdenum grease which is why it is used on brake parts to prevent seizing and squealing. "ordinary" grease would boil away to nothing within one or two revolutions of the wheel.
| ride_whenever wrote: | | The brakes run a lot hotter but push bikes don't generate enough heat to burn the grease off. |
You reckon? Ever tried touching your brake discs after a long descent? Go on, I dare you. I double dare you. If you're too chicken, try squirting your camelbak hose at them.
I use copper grease on Hayes pads with no trouble at all. Only a thin smear ont he back mind, it's not slathered on.
Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
Help for Heroes |
|
|
yeehaamcgee Joined: 07 May 2007 Posts: 6055 Location: Worth Nails
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 9:20 pm |
dave-hill, you're an idiot. Where did he say pushbike brakes don't get hot at all?
He said they don't get hot enough to boil grease.
EDIT:
on reading it back, that seems a bit harsh, sorry, I meant it more of a "you silly boy" kind of thing.
Mae'n enw i wedi ei grafu, hefo hoelan wedi rhydu, ar y lechan las
New
Old
Hardtail
|
|
|
richg1979 Joined: 01 Sep 2008 Posts: 205
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 10:07 pm |
you can buy proper anti sqeal paste that you put on the back of pads, it contains no grease that can harm friction material. its usually blue and like a gel that turns tacky 2 mins after application.
you can also file a lead on the leading edge on the front and back of the friction pad.
|
|
|
bamba Joined: 09 Oct 2009 Posts: 30 Location: Derby
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 10:17 pm |
ive spent most of my time in the motor trade and understand why/when to use copper grease, after taking my pads out on my bike i think the area is way too small to be using any grease given the proximity to the friction surfaces, any splash of water will result in contamination.
mine will squeal at some points after an outing but a quick clean up with some emery cloth (pads and disc)will sort them, a quick clean after any muddy outing should be done anyway imo to avoid future problems.
check your pads are returning after being applyied, ie is a piston partially seized ?
or as other folk have said try a different pad make or compound as this is normally a cause (cheap pads) on cars
or may be it your braking style ? ? can continuse dragging of the brake cause this
|
|
|
The Great Stonk Joined: 27 Dec 2004 Posts: 10
 |
Posted Fri Nov 6, 2009 10:54 pm |
the easiest way to rid yourself of brake squeel is to change to a different brand/compound of pad...
the harder the pad the more the tendancy to squeel and vibrate, sintered pads are rock 'ard and last like no other.
try a switch to organic pads or kevlar compounds. ebc red's can stop a train... quietly.
|
|
|
dave_hill Joined: 16 Oct 2007 Posts: 3638 Location: Burnley, Lancs.
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 8:12 am |
| yeehaamcgee wrote: | | He said they don't get hot enough to boil grease. |
No he didn't. Read his post again. And if they can get hot enough to boil the fluid, they certainly can get hot enough to boil (or burn) grease.
| yeehaamcgee wrote: | | on reading it back, that seems a bit harsh, sorry, I meant it more of a "you silly boy" kind of thing. |
Engage brain before opening mouth, eh?
Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
Help for Heroes |
|
|
sheepsteeth Joined: 07 Mar 2007 Posts: 5472 Location: kent
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 9:19 am |
the best way to get rid of squeal is to set your calipers properly, if they squeal when you apply the brake when its wet, i would say this is normal, if they squeal when you apply the brake in the dry, id say you need new pads for some reason. if they squeal all the time, the brakes need setting up correctly.
if you are prepared to replace your pads if they get contaminated when you try the grease then good luck to you.
in my experience, if we were supposed to be using some type of grease on our brakes, they would come supplied with it or the instructions would tell you to. if the noise is intolerable for you and this was normal, everyone would be reporting it.
id wager grease is not the word.
1, 2, 3, crush, |
|
|
yeehaamcgee Joined: 07 May 2007 Posts: 6055 Location: Worth Nails
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 11:25 am |
| dave_hill wrote: | | yeehaamcgee wrote: | | He said they don't get hot enough to boil grease. |
No he didn't. Read his post again. And if they can get hot enough to boil the fluid, they certainly can get hot enough to boil (or burn) grease. |
The issue has been bougth up in this thread already though.
Mae'n enw i wedi ei grafu, hefo hoelan wedi rhydu, ar y lechan las
New
Old
Hardtail
|
|
|
supersonicLives Here Joined: 25 Nov 2005 Posts: 48031 Location: Chapeltown, Sheffield
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 2:12 pm |
Copper grease is an anti sieze compound - Copaslip is the most common and well known brand.
There are other high temp greases, not all will burn or boil with a disc brake.
Zaskar LE 1996
Zaskar Carbon Team
MYSPACE |
|
|
Buckled_Rims Joined: 04 Apr 2009 Posts: 114 Location: Geordieland
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 4:03 pm |
| bamba wrote: | i
check your pads are returning after being applyied, ie is a piston partially seized ?
|
Everyone is assuming it's the pads that squealing, but in my case, I'm sure the pistons were sticking/seized.
Also agree with dave_hill, my front brakes get very hot despite them being 203mm. I once came down from Cross Fell, northwards on the bridleway for a 10+km downhill and believe you me the discs were hot enough to fry eggs on at the bottom.
|
|
|
saracen fan Joined: 08 Sep 2009 Posts: 132 Location: thetford, norfolk
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 4:04 pm |
ok,
so you say you have tried everything which is fair enough, but I think it would be a good idea to list what you have tried so far.....because we all miss or forget something sometimes!
And if you have then there might be another option other than copper bloody grease!
Chicken and Broccoli!
Saracen Trace 1 |
|
|
PedroX64 Joined: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: 6
 |
Posted Sat Nov 7, 2009 4:29 pm |
So, for my Avid brakes the downloadable pad installation manual says:
| Quote: | disc brake pads (fits bb7 and all juicy brakes)
installation instructions
OPEN WIDE (BB7 only)
Turn the inboard pad adjuster knob counterclockwise until it stops. Remove the old pads and discard.
PUSH THE PISTONS BACK IN (JUICY only)
Place a flat-blade screwdriver between the old pads, then carefully rock it back and forth, pushing the
pistons back into their bores.
MAKE A SPRING SANDWICH
Assemble the spring between the new left and right pads. Align the spring to the pad as shown.
SQUEEZE THE SANDWICH
Squeeze the pad assembly between your fingers.
FEED THE BRAKE
Insert the sanwich into the brake. Firmly press until they ‘click’ into position.
The pad marked “R” goes on the spoke side of the brake. |
No mention of grease, but definite instruction to check which pad is on which side of the caliper.
Also, noise is created by vibration, so surely checking rotor and caliper bolts are tightened correctly as well as caliper alignment are important.
|
|
|
Zaskar20 Joined: 05 Apr 2009 Posts: 276
 |
Posted Sun Nov 8, 2009 1:31 pm |
Muc-off Disc Brake Cleaner stops my brakes squealing. Just a quick squirt, then ride for a few secs with the brake applied and it goes!
I've used copper grease in the past and it has made NO difference to the squealing. It does however contaminate the pads/rotors, no matter how carefully applied. Those brakes never performed the same again - even with new pads!
|
|
|
|