The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014

Discuss the eternal "Which fork/bike/tyres should I buy?" questions.
coursemyhorse
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby coursemyhorse » Thu Oct 04, 2012 20:07 pm

Guys I have a problem with my 502b XML torch. Always been a bit intermittant and now the problem is constant. Basically I lose power when I do the end cap up fully (to confirm, the end that screws in to the non LED end which pushes the spring down on the battery). If I do the end cap up to about 3/4 of how far it will do up, at this point the LED that was lit and working fine cuts out. So say it takes 9 turns to fully do up, on the 6th turn it cuts out and still has a thread or two to go in terms of doing it up fully pressured. This end cap has a switch built into it which is the normal type on these torches where you push it hard and fully in and then out to engage the power of the torch, and pressing it lightly in switches modes (low, med, high, flashing).

Could this be a problem with the end cap? Unfortunately I cannot test it out with another torch as the other two are 501b's (nto 502) and the end cap threads are different.

Appreciate any help with this. Ta all.

coursemyhorse
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby coursemyhorse » Thu Oct 04, 2012 20:12 pm

To confirm the above: same problem posted by someone on amazon who bought a similar torch. Basically sounds like a dodgey tail cap. Hmm. How to fix?


"My light has a defective rear tail-cap switch. When the tail cap is screwed on completely, the light will not operate at all. Unscrewing the tail cap about 2/3 of the way will allow the switch to operate about 50% of the time. Another turn or two and the tail cap comes off.

This is totally unreliable and unacceptable. Unfortunately, the seller requires a 15 day return period and I didn't get to test the light until 2 weeks after it arrived - resulting in a total waste of my money.

When the unit actually emits light - it is a very bright, very broad, pattern best described as a flood light and not a spot light. The 220 Lumen Dorcy 49-4299 or 300 Lumen MXDL CREE illuminate a target at 125 yards far better than this "900 Lumen" UltraFire. For work at close ranges (10 to 40 yards) - this light illuminates a broad area with a clean white light.

Testing the light against white double garage doors on a moonless night reveals some minor shadows, defects, and "ghosts" in the pattern - but nothing too bad, especially given the short range flood light nature of the product.

I do not have the test equipment to verify UltraFire's claim of 900 lumens, but I very much doubt it. Comparing this light to many "big name" brands such as Streamlight, Pelican, Dorsey, Fenix, MagLite, Surefire, etc. - I can't see that it is any brighter than their 200~300 lumen models.

Of course - none of that matters when the switch is defective and the light doesn't work. Other reviewers have had better luck - but quality control is obviously an issue with this unit.

05-SEP-11 UPDATE: After disassembling (not simply unscrewing it) the tail-cap/switch assembly and putting everything back together - the switch started working normally with the tail cap fully screwed on. I've not unscrewed the tail-cap since for fear it will stop working again... once the battery runs out, I will be forced to try my luck. I've increased my rating from 1 star to 2. No customer should have to repair a brand new product. At this point, I have little confidence in this light and wouldn't count on it for life/death situations. If it continues to work correctly after several battery changes, I'll increase the rating again to 3 stars.

25-FEB-12 UPDATE: I've used this unit now for nearly 6 months after finally getting it to work. After the first battery change, the switch acted up again - but removing the tail cap, messing with the spring, and reinstalling - it has worked flawlessly ever since, even through several more battery swaps. Since it HAS been working, I've used it a lot around the home and ranch. I've decided it is ideal for in-house and close (up to ~ 50 feet) work outside. I'm raising my rating to 3-stars, but will not go any higher due to all the initial problems. "

-Archie-
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby -Archie- » Thu Oct 04, 2012 20:20 pm

Bad contacts and poor assembly quality is the reason of most failures I've seen on Chinese lights. Just disassemble it as mush as possible, clean every contacting surfaces from dirt, soldering residues and oxides, lubricate, and carefully assemble back, tightening everything thoroughly. Chances are, your light will work fine...

coursemyhorse
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby coursemyhorse » Thu Oct 04, 2012 20:32 pm

Cheers Archie. Will give it ago tomorrow and report back. :)

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Ouija
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby Ouija » Thu Oct 04, 2012 20:41 pm

Had this problem, it's quite common.

Sometimes tightening the inside of the cap (the two small depressions next to the springs) helps. However, i found that a lot of it was down to using protected batteries, which are longer than standard batteries. Two of my 502's have longer bodies to allow for this but two didn't (the main body section was a couple of mm shorter on two models). 18650 batteries are susceptible to crushing, since they are soft lithium inside and not metal and this can cause invisible cracks to appear in the lithium itself. This causes the battery to cut out when compressed lengthwise and kick in again when the pressure is slackened off. Needless to say, i've switched to using regular 18650 on the shorter two torches and still use protected 18650 on the longer two torches. Haven't had any problems with cutting out since.

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apreading
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby apreading » Thu Oct 04, 2012 23:21 pm

I never get anything shipped by fedex if I can avoid it - always seem to get stung for customs... AND they are a right bunch of gits to deal with when they (more than 50% of the time) screw something up...

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diy
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby diy » Fri Oct 05, 2012 06:23 am

@coursemyhorse
1. Tighten the end cap, there is an internal thread on the cap that sometimes works loose.
2. Tighten the spring on the drop in

watch my vid for how to:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJpQAvum0bM

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supersonic
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby supersonic » Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:11 am

I do not have the test equipment to verify UltraFire's claim of 900 lumens, but I very much doubt it. Comparing this light to many "big name" brands such as Streamlight, Pelican, Dorsey, Fenix, MagLite, Surefire, etc. - I can't see that it is any brighter than their 200~300 lumen models.


Lumens and brightness are two different things. As you state earlier, the beam pattern is different - lumens over a wider angle reduces the lux readings. That said the claims are usually too high, a 900 lumens p7 torch is usually 5-600. It will be outputting more than the torches you mention, just a wider throw.

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Jimx26
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby Jimx26 » Fri Oct 05, 2012 13:00 pm

My lights and batteries arrived from light malls last week paid £14 for Fed ex delivery.

This morning I have received a bill from fed ex for £16, admin and VAT apparantly :(

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diy
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby diy » Fri Oct 05, 2012 13:41 pm

@Jimx26 what light and how much was it?

@SS Lumen is pretty easy to calculate based on the known LED, bin and current consumed. You are not going to be too far off with that calculation, providing you go with a warmed up lumen claim rather than the max.

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VWsurfbum
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby VWsurfbum » Fri Oct 05, 2012 13:51 pm

Jimx26 wrote:My lights and batteries arrived from light malls last week paid £14 for Fed ex delivery.

This morning I have received a bill from fed ex for £16, admin and VAT apparantly :(

Snap!

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Jimx26
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby Jimx26 » Fri Oct 05, 2012 16:25 pm

diy wrote:@Jimx26 what light and how much was it?

@SS Lumen is pretty easy to calculate based on the known LED, bin and current consumed. You are not going to be too far off with that calculation, providing you go with a warmed up lumen claim rather than the max.


2 Ultrafire U2 501b's
2 Batteries
and a charger

It was £42 all in with delivery IIRC

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Ouija
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby Ouija » Fri Oct 05, 2012 16:33 pm

You can pick up 501's/502's from british sellers for a tenner or more. Better batteries can be had too, as well as chargers for only 5 to 10 quid. Beats me why people order from half way round the world (unless it's significantly cheaper, which in this case it isn't).

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diy
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby diy » Fri Oct 05, 2012 19:35 pm

Looks like this is a fed ex problem. had you ordered the items Hong Kong post they would be under the £15 limit. I have ordered loads from dx bob lm and never had any problems. But I dint buy 18650s form china because they are junk normally.

UPDATE: I think you can dodge this... how much is VAT and how much is admin?

I don't think you are legally obliged to pay anything other than VAT due. Fed Ex should have gained your agreement to pay at the point of delivery, if you haven't previously agreed to pay their fees. I think you can just pay the vat and tell them to whistle for the fee. They are effectively offering you a service. If you refuse they'll go after LM.

See : http://www.fedex.com/gb/rates/ratesinfo.html#dt

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apreading
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby apreading » Sat Oct 06, 2012 23:16 pm

diy wrote:Looks like this is a fed ex problem. had you ordered the items Hong Kong post they would be under the £15 limit. I have ordered loads from dx bob lm and never had any problems. But I dint buy 18650s form china because they are junk normally.

UPDATE: I think you can dodge this... how much is VAT and how much is admin?

I don't think you are legally obliged to pay anything other than VAT due. Fed Ex should have gained your agreement to pay at the point of delivery, if you haven't previously agreed to pay their fees. I think you can just pay the vat and tell them to whistle for the fee. They are effectively offering you a service. If you refuse they'll go after LM.

See : http://www.fedex.com/gb/rates/ratesinfo.html#dt


That was my arguement with them last time - when a cousin sent the kids a couple of T-shirts from USA and FedEx wanted to charge me something like £25...! Told them that I had no contract with them and therefore no obligation to pay them any money and that the stuff inside wasnt worth enough to be eligible for VAT and that they could come take it back as it wasnt worth £25 either...! Spoke to 3 or 4 people but they all said that by accepting the goods we had agreed to the T&Cs. But the bill came 2 weeks later I said - we didnt know there would be a bill when the goods were delivered, otherwise we would not have accepted them... And so it went on until I kept insisting to go up the chain to supervisor, then boss of supervisor etc until at last someone said they would waive it on this case as a gesture of good willl!

I NEVER use FedEx, nor does my company, nor do I order anything that I know is going to be delivered by FedEx.

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diy
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby diy » Mon Oct 08, 2012 07:49 am

I couldn't find anything in their terms that allow them to make that assumption. The goods could be accepted by anyone at the address or a mail room.

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Jimx26
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby Jimx26 » Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:41 am

diy wrote:Looks like this is a fed ex problem. had you ordered the items Hong Kong post they would be under the £15 limit. I have ordered loads from dx bob lm and never had any problems. But I dint buy 18650s form china because they are junk normally.

UPDATE: I think you can dodge this... how much is VAT and how much is admin?

I don't think you are legally obliged to pay anything other than VAT due. Fed Ex should have gained your agreement to pay at the point of delivery, if you haven't previously agreed to pay their fees. I think you can just pay the vat and tell them to whistle for the fee. They are effectively offering you a service. If you refuse they'll go after LM.

See : http://www.fedex.com/gb/rates/ratesinfo.html#dt


Thanks

I will have to rey and find it as I threw it in disgust :lol:

Neal_
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby Neal_ » Tue Oct 09, 2012 09:55 am

Any thoughts on this?

Bit pricey for Chinese stuff and not clear if T6 or U2 but it seems to have proper high/med/low with all LED's rather than just full power on 1,2,3 or 4 LED's and no strobe. 6 cell pack is good too but even so not great run time.

£71 4500-Lumen 4T6/4U2 4xCree XM-L 3-Mode LED Front Bicycle Light With 6*18650 Battery Set And Charger


Working Voltage :9~12V (Maximum 15V)
Power: 35W
Light Emitter: 4xCree XM-L
Brightness :3500~5000LM
Battery pack: 6 * 18650/4400MAH
Runing Time: 60~80Minutes On High Mode,
Modes: 100%High - 50%Mid - 10%Low
Protection: lithium low Voltage protection, overheating protection
Size: 58MM* 76MM
Weight: 800 g
Bracket: Fit Fot 22~35MM handlebar
Protection function and the prompt signal:When the light working,the mode change to Low mode and we can not change it and flash in 5 seconds,it means the temperature is too high, Now We need to reduce the brightness or offer better cooling conditions; if the mode change to low mode,and flash 2 in 5 seconds,it means no electric, Now we must charge the battery set or it will damage.

Image

Image

Image

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diy
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby diy » Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:00 am

A bit too expensive given the 2 and 3x XM-L alternatives

smashed
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Re: The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2012

Postby smashed » Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:51 am

I bought the 1600 XML and it is up to the job :) Thanks for the advice.

However,

I now want a matching rear light as I have had 3 rear lights and all 3 have switched off for no reason (1 x usb revolution , 2 x Smart Lunar R1). I don't really want to dice with death so a battery pack connected rear seems more sensible.

Any idea where I can get the matching rear (can probably find the splitter myself)?

Thanks


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