Removing a Rear Wheel Fitted with Shimano Alfine Hub

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CaerlyrOsprey
Posts: 31
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2012 13:23 pm

Removing a Rear Wheel Fitted with Shimano Alfine Hub

Postby CaerlyrOsprey » Mon Jul 02, 2012 17:26 pm

Having purchased a new inner tube after getting a puncture, I would appreciate some help and instructions on how to remove the rear wheel of my bike.

I am very new to cycling, so very much a learning experience for me.

The rear wheel has a Shimano Alfine 8 Hub, so I'm guessing it's not just as simple as loosening the nuts!

Cheers,

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Godders1
Posts: 713
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2010 19:31 pm

Re: Removing a Rear Wheel Fitted with Shimano Alfine Hub

Postby Godders1 » Mon Jul 02, 2012 18:17 pm

The only slightly tricky bit is removing the shifter cable from the hub (although it's easy once you know how).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGEXjpXtw4g

sdavies13
Posts: 11
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 15:05 pm

Re: Removing a Rear Wheel Fitted with Shimano Alfine Hub

Postby sdavies13 » Mon Jul 02, 2012 20:41 pm

1. Set gear to first.
2. Armature on hub into which changer cable goes will pull back to give you some play, pull back then "un-clip" changer cable from armature and slowly let armature go back to rest position.
3. Now unbolt wheel as normal and slip out of frame.

Refitting is reverse of the above.

So long as you don't use excessive force you shouldn't break anything.

Also to check changer alignment when reconnected set to middle gear and two yellow markers on the hub should line up.

MichaelW
Posts: 2155
Joined: Thu May 15, 2003 11:09 am

Re: Removing a Rear Wheel Fitted with Shimano Alfine Hub

Postby MichaelW » Mon Jul 02, 2012 22:42 pm

Gear 1 for max cable slack.
There is a small hole in the tip of the cassette joint (rotating arm thingy). Use a small allen key or something to rotate for slack cable so you can remove the cable bolt.
Grab the cable bolt with needle nosed pliers and apply a little rotation to align the flats with the cassette arm, then it slide out.
Release the spring tension slowly or you launch the allen key into orbit.
You can re-insert the cable bolt and it will work without re-adjustment. Don't loosen cable bolt or adjust the cable tension.
Remove wheel in normal manner. No need to remove axle bolts completely. If you do, then make a note of which colour of anti-rotation spacers you have on each side.

When you reinsert the axle, you have to rotate the cassette arm and axle to align the anti-rotation bolts in the frame. There are 2 valid positions, only 1 has the cassette arm pointing in the correct direction.
Take care aligning the brake disk within the pads, dont force it, dont touch or contaminate it with grease.
Tighten the bolts by hand then gradually each side with a spanner. Ring spanners get a better grip then open/crescent ones. Thick ones are tougher than thin pedal or cone spanners and don't damage the bolts. Adjustable spanners are troublesome to use.
Horizontal dropouts require very tight bolts to prevent the axle moving. Vertical dropouts trap the axle so just tighten to hold in place.
On some bikes with horizontal axles, you can't re-insert an inflated tyre.

Go to gear 4 and check the yellow alignment tab.


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