Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

What bike and bike bits should you buy?
richiegwy
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Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby richiegwy » Mon Aug 19, 2013 08:53 am

I'm considering treating myself & building a bike over the winter (if my bonus comes through!!). I mainly do club rides and solo spins in the 70-120 km range.
I have been debating which way would be of most benefit a very light bike with mechanical or take the kit on some weight and go electronic. The reason i'm not doing both is I have options on some good value frames that are mechanical only.
Options:
1. C'dale SuperSix Evo 2013/2014 from. Build it up with SRAM Red 22 and something like R-sys wheels
2. Specialized SL4 or Swift Ultravox Ti. Build with the new Ultegra 11sp Di2
3. Aero frame like Scott foil / Cervelo S5. Build with new Ultegra 11sp Di2 with some aero 35/40mm rims


I am currently riding a Look 566 with SRAM drivetrain (Red/Force mix)
Last edited by richiegwy on Mon Aug 19, 2013 16:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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ugo.santalucia
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby ugo.santalucia » Mon Aug 19, 2013 08:59 am

Are you a fettler? Can you fettle with electronic gears? If so, then go electronic, if not then stick to mechanical... for me half of the fun in fettling with the bike, so I avoid any component that I cannot take into parts and reassemble

philbar72
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby philbar72 » Mon Aug 19, 2013 09:04 am

Everything except r-sys wheels looks great on that list. not a fan having tried them. they are light but their hubs must have a lead/grit mixture in them! they are truly awful.

whats the goal, as it looks like one bike would be aero (item 3) ( wouldn't go for an S5 either btw) whereas the cdale (item 1) is a hillclimb build?

bang for buck the scott is probably the best bike. SL4's are great, but very common, never seen the swift so you'd get a fair bit of exclusivity! Nothing wrong with the cannondale.

Why DI2 btw? Ultegra performs well enough by itself, though the new 11 speed Di2 does look like it removes a fair bit of the weight issues from the old 6770 series.

chris1967cycling
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby chris1967cycling » Mon Aug 19, 2013 09:44 am

You can still go 11 spd Di2 with mechanical frames - not quite as tidy looking but a lot easy to set up & maintain

I've got 11 spd DA Di2 and its a PITA fitting the internal cables, battery etc.

richiegwy
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby richiegwy » Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:00 pm

I enjoy being at the front of the group and pacing. I can set a pretty good pace going up drags and am getting into climbing a bit more now (they're not huge climbs though!!). What I'm looking for is something lighter, which picks up better and responds faster. The look is lovely and plush but sometimes feels like there is a delay when you want to put power down.
The geek in me likes the DI2 especially the front shifting and the multichange in the rear now available.

If I go DI2 it will be with a frame designed for it so wires etc are hidden.

For somemone who hasn't built a bike before is it feasible to build one with Di2?

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springtide9
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby springtide9 » Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:03 pm

I don't understand the point of electronic gears.

I do however reserve the right to change my mind if we get some kind of 'S tronic transmission' in the future :lol: , but as it stands, I'm very confused as I don't seem to get tired fingers on rides, and I've managed to figure out (without a manual) that twisting the cable adjuster once in a while resolves alignment issues usually caused from cable stretch.

If I'm going to carry a battery on the bike, I'd want it to power my lights, or better still, help turn the cranks.

I know I've missed the point, maybe someone can explain the point of electronic shifting?
Simon

SloppySchleckonds
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby SloppySchleckonds » Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:24 pm

richiegwy wrote:The reason i'm not doing both is I have options on some good value frames that are mechanical only.
Options:
1. C'dale SuperSix Evo 2013/2014 from. Build it up with SRAM Red 22 and something like R-sys wheels


Where have you seen a good price for one of the above?
I've just sold my Di2 bike after 4000 miles. Its good, but not a patch on SRAM red.

I'd probably go with SRAM Force 22 for next build.
I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles

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ugo.santalucia
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby ugo.santalucia » Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:25 pm

springtide9 wrote:I don't understand the point of electronic gears.

I do however reserve the right to change my mind if we get some kind of 'S tronic transmission' in the future :lol: , but as it stands, I'm very confused as I don't seem to get tired fingers on rides, and I've managed to figure out (without a manual) that twisting the cable adjuster once in a while resolves alignment issues usually caused from cable stretch.

If I'm going to carry a battery on the bike, I'd want it to power my lights, or better still, help turn the cranks.

I know I've missed the point, maybe someone can explain the point of electronic shifting?


As you go to 11 speed cassettes or more, you need accuracy and a system based on cable pull cannot give you that much accuracy... while an electric motor in the derailleur can be a lot more accurate in the shifting and does not require readjusting... it makes sense, if it works well...
Of course it is totally un-necessary for the non competitive cyclist, expensive and impractical if you are into the DIY of it.

richiegwy
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby richiegwy » Mon Aug 19, 2013 14:58 pm

SloppySchleckonds wrote:
richiegwy wrote:The reason i'm not doing both is I have options on some good value frames that are mechanical only.
Options:
1. C'dale SuperSix Evo 2013/2014 from. Build it up with SRAM Red 22 and something like R-sys wheels


Where have you seen a good price for one of the above?
I've just sold my Di2 bike after 4000 miles. Its good, but not a patch on SRAM red.

I'd probably go with SRAM Force 22 for next build.



Why do you say it's not a patch on SRAM red? Was it DI2 you had and what made you get rid?

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Monty Dog
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby Monty Dog » Mon Aug 19, 2013 15:17 pm

If keeping the bike for a long time, then the built-in obsolescence of electronic parts means that you can't be guaranteed spares support. I also know that water ingress and corrosion in connectors kills these types of components, regardless of what the makers say.
Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..

SloppySchleckonds
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby SloppySchleckonds » Mon Aug 19, 2013 17:27 pm

richiegwy wrote:
SloppySchleckonds wrote:
richiegwy wrote:The reason i'm not doing both is I have options on some good value frames that are mechanical only.
Options:
1. C'dale SuperSix Evo 2013/2014 from. Build it up with SRAM Red 22 and something like R-sys wheels


Where have you seen a good price for one of the above?
I've just sold my Di2 bike after 4000 miles. Its good, but not a patch on SRAM red.

I'd probably go with SRAM Force 22 for next build.



Why do you say it's not a patch on SRAM red? Was it DI2 you had and what made you get rid?


Just find Red slicker, although I found Di2 better than Dura ace 7900, I haven't tried 9000. Not sure why I got rid as its hard to quantify, but it just removes that feeling of being connected to the bike a little bit.
I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles

Mccaria
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Re: Bike Build options - mechanical WW vs electronic

Postby Mccaria » Tue Aug 20, 2013 08:24 am

I have now had some time on 9000 mechanical and 9070 electric, as well as 7900 mechanical and 7970 electric.

If I had to go with one groupset then it would be 9000 mechanical. The upgrade from 7900 to 9000 on gear shifting was a material improvement, whereas the improvement from 7970 to 9070 was less obvious (mainly because 7970 was already pretty good !). The gear shifting on 9000 is very good and the give up in shifting to 9070 is minimal, even on the front derailleur. If you want to go electric that's fair enough, go for it, but from a performance perspective there is very little between a mechanical and electronic 11 speed groupset. If the shifting on Red 22 is in the ball park of the 9000 mechanical, then I don't think you lose out much going mechanical versus electric and it is a cheaper option.

For me the reason to go mechanical would be that I am comfortable and enjoy doing the wrenching on a mechanical set and can do it all at home, I am less confident with the electrics and am more likely to take it in if anything goes askew. To date the only issue I have had with electric was on 7970 when the front derailleur stopped auto trimming, so its not as though it has required significant maintenance.


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