Shimano Freewheel

Here is the place to post the more serious issues surrounding commuting, bike and kit questions, and buying advice
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2013 00:22 am

Shimano Freewheel

Postby f00dl3a » Sat Dec 14, 2013 00:26 am

Do Shimano freewheels come by default with one of the highest geared teeth kind of sheared on one side of the tooth? I have a freewheel that I think is causing the chain to skip when in the highest gear because (I thought I caused it by improperly removing an old chain with plyers) it has a sheared tooth, but when I ordered a replacement on Amazon there is a tooth sheared in the same fashion. I returned this and the replacement they sent me has the same exact problem.

User avatar
Lives Here
Posts: 81828
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:50 am

Re: Shimano Freewheel

Postby supersonic » Sat Dec 14, 2013 01:09 am

Yes, the teeth are profiled.

Posts: 2155
Joined: Thu May 15, 2003 11:09 am

Re: Shimano Freewheel

Postby MichaelW » Sat Dec 14, 2013 02:28 am

Pre-worn teeth are a feature, not a bug; they aid snappy shifting with indexed gear levers.
It is usual for worn chains to skip with new freewheels. You should usually change the chain with the freewheel.

User avatar
The Rookie
Posts: 23042
Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 09:29 am

Re: Shimano Freewheel

Postby The Rookie » Sat Dec 14, 2013 05:10 am

Not pre-worn, profiled, shaped or formed!

As stated a worn chain with a new freewheel can skip, as can a new chain on a worn freewheel. Have you measured the chain wear?

User avatar
Posts: 124
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2013 05:55 am

Re: Shimano Freewheel

Postby ScottishGeek » Sat Dec 14, 2013 07:06 am

If it still skips after changing the chain it's likely your indexing needs a tweek.
My son, Andrew, and I are cycling from London to Paris in June of 2016 in aid of the British Heart Foundation.

Posts: 719
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 21:55 pm

Re: Shimano Freewheel

Postby owenlars » Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:59 am

Over a few thousand miles a chain and a cassette wear together to create a mutually compliant shape where the chain and the cassette teeth engage. If you replace the chain without replacing the cassette you remove one half of this mutual compliance which means that the new chain, which does not have a shape that is compliant with your old cassette, is likely to ride up the old shape teeth causing skipping.

The way to deal with this is to change the chain every 1500 or so miles (or when your chain wear tool - any LBS will sell you one- indicates it to be necessary). In this way the you can get away with replacing the cassette every 5000-6000 miles. The alternative is to leave chain and cassette until they are both completely worn out and replace both at the same time. This link to Sheldon brown explains all.

The profiled teeth on the cassette are entirely normal

Return to “Commuting General”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests