Rear Mech

Sorting out your thrunge brackets, fettling your inter-rositers and even stuff about bike parts.
iwilldoit
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Rear Mech

Postby iwilldoit » Tue Dec 31, 2013 17:20 pm

Hi All,
You will have to forgive me this as most prob be asked before and I have only had a mtb a month so I'm a little clueless, been watching the Bike Radar you tube clip on how to set up a rear mech and they show you with the cable un attached, I'm putting a new chain on my bike this week and want to make sure the gears are changing smoothly, there jumping at the moment

So can I adjust the mech with the cable still attached or do I have to take it off ?

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nicklouse
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby nicklouse » Tue Dec 31, 2013 17:22 pm

Why do you need to adjust it? If it is fine now it will be fine after changing the chain.

Have a read if the info on Parktools for any adjustments you might need to make.
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iwilldoit
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby iwilldoit » Tue Dec 31, 2013 17:30 pm

As I said I haven't got much of a clue, I have read that a worn chain can cause the gears to jump, But if that doesn't sort the problem fully I thought I would have to adjust the mech, the H&L seem fine but I thought the indexing might need looking at.
I will have a look at the Park Tools site and see if I can find the info you have mentioned thank you very much for the reply

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The Rookie
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby The Rookie » Wed Jan 01, 2014 08:04 am

You definitely need the cable attached to do the indexing!

Chunkers1980
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby Chunkers1980 » Wed Jan 01, 2014 10:32 am

Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.

Bushy88
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby Bushy88 » Wed Jan 01, 2014 20:11 pm

I used this video to adjust up mine the other day, not done it before and found it pretty simple to follow.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UH43OCmArUw

iwilldoit
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby iwilldoit » Wed Jan 01, 2014 23:27 pm

Chunkers1980 wrote:Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.


Hi Yes the bike is new to me it's around 9 months old, I read on the internet about measuring 12 links and it should be 12" if it's 1/16 over it needs a new chain and is it's 1/8" over new chain and cassette, it's a fraction under a 1/16" that's why I have gone for a new chain.

iwilldoit
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby iwilldoit » Wed Jan 01, 2014 23:31 pm

Bushy88 wrote:I used this video to adjust up mine the other day, not done it before and found it pretty simple to follow.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UH43OCmArUw


Thanks for the link that's the one I have been watching, I haven't really had anything to do with MTB until a month a go, but watching that clip I completely re did my sons Giant XTR with rapid fire shifters ,Alivio brakes and all new cables, might be a small thing to most people but I was well chuffed the gears were in a hell of a mess.

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cooldad
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby cooldad » Wed Jan 01, 2014 23:46 pm

iwilldoit wrote:
Chunkers1980 wrote:Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.


Hi Yes the bike is new to me it's around 9 months old, I read on the internet about measuring 12 links and it should be 12" if it's 1/16 over it needs a new chain and is it's 1/8" over new chain and cassette, it's a fraction under a 1/16" that's why I have gone for a new chain.
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iwilldoit
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby iwilldoit » Thu Jan 02, 2014 08:58 am

cooldad wrote:
iwilldoit wrote:
Chunkers1980 wrote:Chains should really be lasting longer than a month if the bike was new (YMMV of course), or the bike may be new to you, but if that is the case then you may need a new cassette too.


Hi Yes the bike is new to me it's around 9 months old, I read on the internet about measuring 12 links and it should be 12" if it's 1/16 over it needs a new chain and is it's 1/8" over new chain and cassette, it's a fraction under a 1/16" that's why I have gone for a new chain.
Don't believe everything you read, or you'll be really poor. I believe somewhere on the internet is an actual, real picture of bigfoot.


Hi
What's the best way to know when a chain needs replacing?

Chunkers1980
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby Chunkers1980 » Thu Jan 02, 2014 09:29 am

Using the correct tool. Even then there's a school of thought which says change the lot when when it is all completely buggered

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The Rookie
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby The Rookie » Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:04 am

Either change the chain often (use a gauge, they are only pennies), or wait until the whole lot has worn and creates a problem!

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cooldad
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby cooldad » Thu Jan 02, 2014 13:34 pm

The Rookie wrote:Either change the chain often (use a gauge, they are only pennies), or wait until the whole lot has worn and creates a problem!

The latter. Chain wear gauges were invented by chain companies to sell chains. IMHO.
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The Rookie
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Re: Rear Mech

Postby The Rookie » Thu Jan 02, 2014 13:37 pm

Or use 3 chains, rotate through them as everything else wheres, that way the cassette and rings last even longer, common trick for high mileage road cyclists (not roadies as such).


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