Feature

Fri 29 Jun, 12:00 am UTC

Buyer's Guide to Car Racks

By Paul Smith

Transporting your bike or bikes can be a real faff, especially if you're not the owner of an expansive estate car or van. The alternative, of course, is to mount a rack that can carry them on the outside of the car. There are three main types available, each with its own benefits. Here we take a look at some of the latest models available, so you can carry your bikes around with you stress-free.

Tow Bar Mounted

These either connect to a standard tow ball, or bolt to the tow ball-mounting plate. They're usually more expensive, but the quality and load-carrying abilities are considerably better. Most feature places that you can lock the bike to with a standard U-lock or chain. Clever designs enable almost one-handed fitting, while hinged load sections provide access to the boot/tailgate of the car without having to remove the bikes. As a basic rule, the more features it has, the more money it costs. You also need a tow bar on your car; extra expense if you don't already have one.

  • Pros: Good ones are strong, and, as they're behind the car and out of the way of the main airflow, fuel consumption doesn't suffer too much. Security can be very good.
  • Cons: You need a tow bar. With the bikes off, reversing can yield some rather horrifying results should you forget about the rack.

Strap Mounted

These racks aren't actually mounted on straps, of course, but the main thing holding them to your car is a bunch of straps that hook around the lip of your car's boot/hatchback/tailgate. Such racks are usually highly adjustable, so you can fit them to the rear of almost all car types. Rubber or foam 'feet' grip the vehicle, with the whole unit pulled to the sides and secured by the straps.

This is by far the most common style of rack, but relies heavily on it being fitted properly and the hooks that press the straps to the car can be less than kind to your paintwork. They're also pretty simple things to steal, because any scummy bike thief can loosen or slit the straps and be away with the lot in seconds.

  • Pros: Easy to fit and usually the cheapest option. The bikes are also visible, so it's hard to forget them when driving, especially when reversing.
  • Cons: If you don't fit it right, you can lose the lot when driving and the bikes are easy to steal.

Roof Mounted

If you can fit a roof rack to your car, then you can fit a roof-mounted cycle rack. These take up to a maximum of four bikes, although we've seen five bikes squeezed on the top of a Fiat Multipla, thanks to the size of that Italian roof. The simplest of the roof-mount systems is a mount for your front forks, and a cup for the rear wheel to strap into. More complex systems sport a full-length channel for both wheels to sit on, with straps for both, and upright adjustable arms to accommodate the frame. Integrated locks that reduce the chance of the bikes being stolen are also common.

  • Pros: One of the most secure racks available. Doesn't hinder access to any doors/ boot/hatch/tailgate.
  • Cons: Drive under something low if you've forgotten about your bikes and you could wreck all your bikes and the roof of your car (and because it's structural, that would write it off). You're also adding a load of aero-drag to your car, so watch that fuel consumption shoot upwards.

Stay legal

Bear in mind the following when buying a rack. The vehicle's number plate and rear lighting system must be visible from all angles (yes, the lights even in the daytime). If you are obscuring them in any way, then you have to put that right before you drive.

The easiest way is to use a light board. This involves having a plug installed at the rear of your car that has connections for all of the outputs that feed your rear lights. Once hooked up to the plug, the lights on the light board then become your main rear lights. Make sure that you fit the light board to the rack (not the bikes - that's illegal) to prevent the bikes or rack obscuring it in any way. Almost all light boards feature a mounting in the middle for displaying a number plate. The average installation cost of the plug is between £70 and £100.

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