Feature

Tue 11 Mar, 1:00 pm UTC

Technique: How to get your seat height right

By Nick Morgan

Setting the correct seat height would seem to be such a fundamental part of cycling that you would have thought the boffins had agreed long ago on the best method. But you’d be wrong.

One thing all the experts agree on however is that if you get the height wrong, the effects can be catastrophic. A brand new study suggests that setting the height too low can decrease time to exhaustion by as much as 12 per cent. 

Consequently cyclists with limited time on their hands might actually get more out of a shorter session by lowering their seats to a sub-optimal level so as to make it harder.

It’s an interesting theory, but even knowing how to get it wrong presupposes that you know how to get it right, and many don’t.  Read on to find out exactly how to do it.

1 The Heel method

The heel method: the heel method

This is the one every bike shop owner or gym assistant will tell you whenever you clamber onto the saddle. You place the heel of your shoe on the pedal and set the saddle height so your leg is straight at the bottom of the pedal cycle with the pelvis remaining in a horizontal position. 

Despite this commonly heard method, there is virtually no scientific evidence to support it and it often leads to the saddle height being adjusted too low.

Professor Will Pelever of Mississippi University for Women has written several papers comparing methods for finding the best seat height and says, “The main problem is that this method does not take into account individual variations in femur, tibia and foot length.”

2 The 109% method

A more robust method was developed by Hamley & Thomas in a 1967 paper. They experimented with different saddle heights and found that the ideal was achieved when the saddle was positioned at 109% of your inseam length when measuring from the pedal axle to the top of the seat height. 

Your inseam measurement is basically the length from your crotch to the floor. To calculate this, face a wall and put a thick-ish book between your legs as if it were a saddle. Ensuring that you are standing straight with your heels on the floor, mark a line along the top of the book edge touching the wall. 

The distance from the floor to the height of the mark is your inseam measurement. It’s best to measure it several times and take an average. 

This has proved an extremely popular method and is recommended by many top-level coaches. Yet a recent study by Professor Pelever found that it was inferior to the Holmes method (see below) both in terms of power output and economy.

3 The LeMond method

This is a popular variation on the 109% method and pioneered by the three time Tour de France winner Greg LeMond.

Also using inseam length as a guide, this formula calculates 88.3% of your inseam length and uses it to measure the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat height.

Interestingly, Pelever has shown that this often produces a different seat height from the 109% method and although it seems to work for many people, it may not be ideal for someone with particularly long femur bones.

4 The Holmes method

This was originally developed to reduce over-use injuries in cycling and takes a different approach entirely from the other three. 

It uses a device called a goniometer for measuring the angle of the knee joint at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Holmes recommends an angle of between 25 and 35 degrees and closer to 25 for those with a history of patella tendonitis.

This may all sound a bit technical and if so it’s probably best to go with one of the two inseam methods, but you can pick up a goniometer for around £20 from medical suppliers.

Pelever’s research has shown that setting your seat height based on a knee angle of 25 degrees outperforms all other methods (including an angle of 35 degrees). “Using a goniometer and a 25 degree angle is definitely the method I’d recommend,” he says.

Don’t rely on simply feeling comfortable either. “If you’ve been pedalling at a much lower saddle height than is optimal, it may feel awkward in the beginning,” says Pelever. 

“However, as your body adapts (usually in two to three weeks) the new position will not only feel comfortable, but will improve performance in the long run.”

Of course, if you still feel uncomfortable after a few weeks then you will need to make changes. It’s best to use the 25 degree knee angle as a starting place. Have someone watch from behind to ensure that your hips do not rock back and forth across the saddle due to over extension at the bottom of the stroke. If that is the case then the angle may need to be adjusted upwards slightly for comfort.

“When I finish fitting someone on their bike, their knee angle is usually somewhere between 25 and 30 degrees, but much closer to 25 on most all occasions,” says Pelever.

User Comments

There are 3 comments on this post

Showing 1 - 3 of 3 comments

  • How does the Lemond method allow for different crank lengths? Or what crank length does it assume?

    Similarly, none of the methods (except perhaps the Holmes) takes into account shoe sole thickness which can vary quite a bit. I know if I chose to go shopping at lunchtime (clips and straps era) my saddle always felt too low because my work shoes had a slightly thicker sole than my cycling shoes. I doubt if the difference was much more than 3 mm (if that) so it goes to show what tiny differences can be perceived, whether they affect performance is another matter.

    Geoff

  • Has anyone tried the LeMond Method?

    I've changed my saddle height (from 'natural' to LeMond) and it dropped down by 4 cm.

    I now feel as though I'm too low and it feels wrong.

    When I was measuring from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat height, I measured it directly ie along the seat tube, is that correct?

  • I applaud Nick's article on saddle height, as it does highlight a very important element in bike fitting. However, I must disagree with his conclusions. While taking measurements has long since been shown to be less than ideal, setting leg angles in an incomplete manner such as Nick suggests is not ideal for most cyclists as well. Why? It doesn't take into account the cyclist's overall anatomy and biomechanics. Two cyclists of the same height and overall physical dimensions can have very different cycling motions.

    For proper fit, including saddle height, aa top cycling technicial mus also be able to assess the athlete's range of motion and flexibility. Often times soft tissue work or even anatomical adjustment is necessary to optimize range of motion. Without this as a starting point, there is jeopardy of injury.

    After this starting point, measuring for leg angle is appropriate, but must be done using the proper anatomical 'landmarks' to properly measure the angle from the hip throiugh the knee joint to the ankle. Using these landmarks, the proper leg angle is normally in the 36-40 degree range, not 25 degrees.

    Our company, John Howard Performance Sports (www.johnhowardsports.com) specializes in using proper biomechanics to guide our bike fits. We are able to achieve power increases in the 10%-25% range while increasing rider comfort and reducing the risk of injury. We document all of our results. Our clients include professional cyclists and triathletes as well as serious recreational cyclists and everything in between.

    Our body is the motor; if the motor is malfunctioning, the car won't run properly.

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