Cyclo-cross: Tips, gear and more

Belgian Jan Arnouts jumping in Germany, 2005. (© THOMAS LOHNES/AFP/Getty Images)

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Cyclo-cross. Many consider it a steeplechase with road-type bicycles on a 2km course over hill and dale; others consider it muddy hell.

French army private Daniel Gousseau would ride his bicycle along horseback-riding friends through the woods in the early 1900s, and is credited with growing cyclo-cross to a separate discipline. Cyclo-cross racing is strongest in Europe, and the most aggressive and successful racers hail from Belgium, Netherlands, France and Italy. Traditionally, the cyclo-cross season runs September to January, ending with the UCI world championships.

Here are some tips on courses, equipment and technique, with links to bicycle manufacturers and a full race schedule appearing in Parts 2 and 3.

Courses

Most cyclo-cross races are held on 1 to 3km courses, mixing pavement, sand, dirt, mud, run-ups and sometimes steps in 60 minutes. Man-made barriers, usually 18 inches high, pepper the course, sometimes staggered close enough to force racers to shoulder or carry their bikes by the top tube. Speed demons with incredible BMX skills have been known to bunny hop the barriers, much to the chagrin of their fellow racers, but impressive to the spectators.

Equipment

The ideal cyclo-cross bike resembles a road/mountain bike cross-polination: lightweight aluminum, carbon, steel or titanium frame; carbon fork; drop bars (for leverage on climbs, and for sprinting); integrated shifters/brake levers (setup motorcycle style); 700c x 30 - 35mm knobby tyres; cantilever or (rarely) disc brakes; MTB clipless pedals (MTB shoes with cleats work best); double or single chainring with guard; 9 or 10 speed cassette. The top tube is shortened a few centimeters compared to one's road bike, and the bottom bracket height can be slightly raised. Top-bar brake levers are often added for better control.

Mud clearance is a big issue; the fork and rear stays need room for mud to build up on the tyres without clogging. Unlike mountain bike tyres, cyclo-cross knobbies aren't as pronounced. The better widths range between 30 - 33mm, with smaller blocked knobbies in a semi-slick pattern befitting most courses.

It's also common to see mechanics exchanging a clean bike for a dirty one during professional races. It's also becoming very uncommon to see mountain bikes used for racing; in the past, MTBs could be used of bar-ends were removed. Now, with complete cyclo-cross bikes becoming more available and affordable, even beginners can break in and benefit from having proper equipment.

Technique

Like triathlon, cyclo-cross mixes multiple athletic endeavours, namely riding and running, with a strong emphasis on skillful bike handling. The pace, barriers, climate and technical aspects of the course weed out the weak, and make for good theatre. Spectators with horns and cowbells provide a festival environment, especially in Europe.

As I mentioned earlier, there are a few ways to address the barriers, but for efficiency and speed, the best way to dismount is to unclip your right foot as you're approaching the barrier or run-up, swing your leg around the saddle and in between your left foot and the bike, unclipping your left foot as your right strikes the ground, catapulting you forward just in time to hop over the barrier or clamber up the hill.

If there are several barriers in a row, it's sometimes best to shoulder the bike (see why it pays to have the lightest bike you can afford?). Or, if you're tall and have good upper body strength, carry the bike by the handlebar with your left hand as your right lifts the top tube. Run-ups are always best accomplished by shouldering the bike, and pumping your left arm for momentum.

Part 2 includes advice from seasoned `cross racers, plus US and UK race schedules; Part 3 includes manufacturer's resources for complete bikes and framesets.

Listen to our Interbike Podcast for further discussion on what's new on the cyclo-cross scene for 2008 along with other show talk.

© BikeRadar 2007

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