Gravel racing has few to no rules dictating what type of bike or kit you can use – so long as it’s safe, a bike you already have will be absolutely fine if you just want to give gravel racing a go.
That low barrier to entry is one of the reasons why gravel racing has become so popular.
But if you’re looking for a competitive edge, these upgrades and tweaks could make your gravel race bike more comfortable, faster and efficient.
1. Optimise your tyre setup
Gravel races are won and lost on tyre choice.
A fast slick will be useless in the mud and a chunky tread will be excessively draggy on smooth parcours.
Equally, compared to the supple cushion-like ride quality offered by the best gravel tyres, an excessively puncture-proof turgid hosepipe of a tyre will sap your weary legs of hard-fought watts.
For gravel racing, optimising your tyre setup – either with an upgrade to fast-rolling supple rubber or simply getting your tyre pressure right – will make the biggest difference above all other upgrades.
2. Stash your spares
However, no matter how well-optimised your setup, punctures are an unavoidable reality of gravel racing.
While you should pack an extensive spares kit for serious trailside repairs, back this up with quick-access tubeless plugs and a pump.
Futzing around a grotty bag filled with spent gel wrappers and loose jelly beans will cost you precious time and leave you flustered, leading to mistakes.
Some riders like to tape spares such as these to their top tube or dedicate a jersey pocket to them.
Whatever strategy you opt for, test before you ride. A dreary wind-swept moor is the last place you want to find out your inner tube valve is too short for your rims.
3. Consider aero bars
Aero bars are a popular upgrade for longer gravel events.
Set up correctly, they tuck you into a tight wind-cheating package, helping you go faster for the same (or less) effort.
Of equal importance in endurance events, they offer an alternative and often more comfortable riding position, helping to reduce upper-body fatigue.
However, their use is controversial in some races.
Aero bars are perceived, not entirely unfairly, as unsafe because they compromise handling. You also need to move from the extensions to access the brake levers.
Some races – most notably Unbound – have gone as far as banning aero bars for certain categories.
If you want to use aero bars, practise before your race – they take a while to get used to and can feel unnerving on rough terrain.
4. Try narrower bars
Consider a narrower drop bar if you don’t want to use aero bars.
Switching from stock ‘wide’ gravel bike handlebars – which are typically in the 40 to 46cm range – to a narrower bar feels weird at first.
But the aero savings can be significant – in our test of the best-value aero upgrades, switching to a 36cm bar was crowned as one of the best bang-for-buck upgrades you can make.
The impact on handling of going narrow is also, often, overstated. Be brave!
5. Accessorise with bags
Compared to a road or mountain bike race, gravel racing requires more stuff – race-mandated safety equipment, extensive spares, copious snacks and additional layers must be stowed somewhere.
Jersey pockets will quickly fill up and rucksacks are best avoided, making accessorising your bike with bags a core part of the gravel-racing experience.
A top tube bag is the most popular option for shorter events – they are easy to access and have minimal aero impact.
Riders will often back this up with a frame pack or bar bag for longer events.
6. Clean your damn chain!
A clean drivetrain will shift smoother, run quieter and can save you precious watts.
You’re also far more likely to pick up on any lurking mechanical gremlins when examining a clean drivechain – a tenacious layer of accumulated filth can easily hide a stiff link, stripped chainring tooth or worn pulleys.
Serious racers may run a waxed chain, although this may not be the best choice for wet or muddy conditions.
