Destination guide: Oslo, where world-class gravel and nature collide

Oslo is a city of contrast. Viewed from its glistening deep-blue fjord, it’s the modern mass of glass and design genius we’ve come to expect from Scandinavia. But dig a little deeper and you’ll discover that it’s nature that Norwegian culture holds most dear.

Just a short ride from the city centre takes you out on segregated cycle lanes and onto sublime tarmac and smooth gravel roads that snake through the trees. Forested wilderness areas, known collectively as Marka, stretch in almost all directions, with Nordmarka to the north being the most well-known and popular among gravel riders.

Some of the best rides make a pilgrimage to Kikutstua, a large wooden cabin overlooking Bjørnsjøen lake, which serves waffles and hearty food for cyclists and hikers in summer, and cross-country skiers when the snow starts to fall. To the south, you can combine farmland tracks with smaller blocks of woodland and magnificent views over the fjords.

Rise early for the best sightseeing in central Oslo, ideally accompanied by filter coffee and skillingsboller (cinnamon rolls). There’s an incredible mix of architecture to admire – from the ornate mouldings of grand old townhouses to the minimalist modern design and glass of the opera house, the Munch museum and Oslo’s financial centre, the Barcode district.

It’s all so quiet and calm that it’s hard to believe this is Norway’s capital. Wander through the cobbled streets of the free-to-enter Akershus Fortress for the best views across the fjord and ferry port.

While you’re never far from a well-stocked bakery in Oslo, traditional Norwegian fare can be harder to find. You’re more likely to enjoy exquisite international cuisine after your ride, from warming bowls at Hrimnir Ramen to dishes from the many street food vendors at the waterside Vippa food court.

What you need to know

When to visit

While Oslo can be visited throughout the summer, early autumn is the perfect time to enjoy the turning leaves, golden light and crisp air, which keeps away the midges that hover near the lakes in summer.

September often brings glorious sunshine, but temperatures can drop quickly in the shade, on descents or when you stop, so layering is essential. Don’t forget gloves and a jacket.

Travel

Reaching Oslo is straightforward, with short, direct flights from London Gatwick, Heathrow, Stansted, Manchester and Edinburgh. There’s no need to hire a car – public transport in Oslo is efficient and easy to use. The Flytoget train takes you from the airport to central Oslo in just 19 minutes, and once in the city, most places are easily reached on foot or by bike.

Accommodation

There’s a good range of options, from boutique hotels to modern apartments. Staying outside the centre can save money, especially if you have your bike to get around, though a fjord-side room will reward you with spectacular sunset views.

Tourist info

Visit visitoslo.com for more details.