Best road bike pedals
The pedal is an important link between you and your road bike. Of the three contact points – saddle, bar and pedals – the latter is by far the most dynamic. After all, the power that you’re working so hard to generate is all going through the pedals to the crank and ultimately propelling the bike. So getting the right pedal is crucial.
Modern clipless pedal systems feature a cleat – fastened to the sole of your shoe – which allows you to clip into and out of your pedals easily, safely and virtually instantly. Although most clipless systems use similar technology, there are still lots of variations and huge price differences. Here's our pick of the top three road pedals we've tested this year.
Best road pedals
1 Time I-Clic² Racer Red
Best all-rounder
£104.99


As a do-anything-and-get-on-with-it all-rounder the Time I-Clic² Racer Red can’t be beaten. The original i-Clic pedal was a favourite of ours, but the pontoon sections of the cleat – which help when you’re walking – were rather fragile and tended to break off easily. We’re pleased to see that the new design significantly beefs up this area.
Entry is simple and reliable, thanks to the hinge engaging only when you place your foot down onto the pedal. You don’t have to push the hinge out of the way to clip in, you simply stand on the pedal and the hinge closes onto the cleat. The release is predictable and reliable, and the whole pedal very well made.
There’s enough tension adjustment to keep racers happy, and you can reduce the tension enough so that less experienced riders won’t feel bolted in. The quality is high and the redesigned cleats are durable too. Knowing that this is the best all-round pedal system on the market at the moment makes their pricetag bearable. www.time-sport.com / www.chickencycles.co.uk
Click here to read BikeRadar's full review of the Time I-Clic² Racer Red
Weight: 248g /pair
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £19.99 (10°)
2 Speedplay Zero Stainless
Best for racing
£149.99


Even people who claimed not to like the idea of them loved the Speedplay Zeros once they’d set them up how they wanted. The only drawback is that the cleat can be a little tough to walk in, but as a racer’s pedal that’s not such a major issue – just take your shoes off. The entry is positive and locating the pedal into the cleat comes naturally and easily right from the start.
We’ve run these pedals for a long time now, and both the pedals and cleats last for ages – which is just as well as they're expensive to replace – so long as you keep the cleat serviced every dozen rides or so. The fitting is what takes time, but do it properly by following the clear instructions and you’ll be rewarded with one of the best pedal systems out there. www.speedplay.com / www.i-ride.co.uk
Click here to read BikeRadar's full review of the Speedplay Zero Stainless
- Weight: 211g
- Cleat: 3 bolt with adaptor, £39.99-£119.99
3 Shimano R540
Best budget pedals
£39.99

Shimano have come up trumps again. The R540 is based on the older SPD-R platform shape but with current cleat compatibility. They’re wonderful all-round high-quality pedals, and with the spring tension backed off they turn into one of the very best novice-friendly systems thanks to a super-easy entry and a reliable release action. bike.shimano.com / www.madison.co.uk
Click here to read BikeRadar's full review of the Shimano R540
- Weight: 336g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £19.99 (0, 6°)
Best of the rest
Mavic Race
£100


Although not aimed at the rider new to clipless pedals, these behave so well in the lowest release tension that if it wasn’t for the pricetag they'd be our choice for the best beginner’s pedal. And there’s enough spring tension adjustment available to let even hardcore clipless pedal riders lock their feet down tight. They also have some of the best bearings, and Mavic’s all-round construction is of an excellent quality too. But although Mavic have changed the cleat material, the cleats are still not quite as long lasting as those from Shimano and Time. www.mavic.com
- Weight: 264g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £13.50 (0, 7°)
RPS RPE011
£34.99


Here’s an odd one... These are the same pedals as the Wellgo R096B below. They’re both made by Wellgo, and yet these worked just fine on both entry and exit regardless of which shoes we wore. The cleats appear to be made from a slightly different material, as does the hinge, but these are such small differences that it could be down to which moulding tool the parts came out of. Either way, these were consistent and smooth, with good bearings, easy serviceability, weighed a couple of grams less than the Wellgos and they come with stainless steel cleat bolts. www.raleigh.co.uk
- Weight: 332g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £11.99 (6°)
Shimano Ultegra 6700
£149.99


These have a carbon fibre reinforced body with the added wear resistance of a replaceable stainless steel cleat support plate across the whole width of the pedal. Typical of Shimano, they have top quality, easily serviceable bearings, long-lasting cleats and a wide range of spring tension adjustment – all of which make these new lighter Ultegra pedals a top contender. And only the Time RXS First and Speedplay pedals are easier to clip into. The price might be a little steep, though compared with the £70 dearer Shimano Dura-Ace 7900s they’re a steal. bike.shimano.com / www.madison.co.uk
- Weight: 256g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £19.99 (0, 6°)
BBB Compdynamic
£54.95


These simple looking Keo-compatible pedals surprised us, for a couple of reasons. We didn’t think they’d cost more than about £45 or so, but they came in at a tenner more, and they’re actually a very decent set. The entry and exit action is smooth and consistent with a wide range of adjustment, and they have good quality bearings which run very smoothly – though servicing them does need a special tool. The cleats wore faster than we'd have liked, and although good pedals, they’re up against strong opposition at this price. bbbcycling.com / www.windwave.co.uk
- Weight: 252g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £9.95 (4.5°) / £11.95 (6°)
Genetic Synergic
£49.99


Genetic have created a good, solid Look Keo-compatible pedal here, with quality bearings, excellent sealing and a decent range of spring tension adjustment. Our only gripe is that to get the same feel for the cleat release in each pedal, we had one spring adjuster screwed a quarter of the way further in than the other, which led us to believe that their springs lack consistency. On the plus side, they work well and are excellent value. Genetic also offer a lighter version of these with titanium axles, tipping the scales at just 245g for a competitive £119.99. www.geneticbikes.com / www.ison-distribution.com
- Weight: 292g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, uses any Look Keo-compatible cleat, supplied with 9°
Look Keo Easy
£54.99


Designed to be easy to clip into and exit, we found these were sometimes a little too easy to unclip. Once the cleats start to wear in – or wear out – it can be very easy for the pedals to let go of the cleat. If you’re new to clipless pedals and still hauling around on the cranks when standing up then look to the Shimano R540s instead, as the adjustable tension feature makes all the difference. These hang a little far back too, making hooking the nose of the cleat into the pedal a little tricky at first. Not a bad pedal, but for similar money there are better beginner-friendly systems. www.lookcycle.com/ www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk
- Weight: 254g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £15.99 (fixed) / £19.99 (4.5, 9°)
Ritchey WCS Echelon
£100


Our Ritchey pedals took a while to get used to, as their bearings take a little time to loosen enough to let the pedals hang freely. This meant that for our first few rides they’d present themselves at all sorts of odd angles. On the plus side they feel reassuringly solid in use, with an easy and positive cleat entry and pleasingly tight interface between cleat and pedal body – without ever feeling sticky or notchy. Cleat release was easy, if anything a bit too easy when we ratcheted up the spring tension. They’re expensive, too, for what is a rather basic pedal. www.ritcheylogic.com / www.paligap.cc
- Weight: 248g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £15 (7°)
Speedplay Light Action Chrome-Moly
£109.99


The action of these isn’t quite as light as the name implies. The force required to clip in is similar to that of the Speedplay Zero, though these have a slightly lighter release action. Float is 15 degrees, but unlike the Zero’s cleats this isn’t adjustable for heel in or heel out positioning. That float is also non-centring, leaving your foot to move around freely within the full range. They’re smooth and positive in entry and exit, it’s easy to find the pedal when clipping in, and as an entry into the world of Speedplay pedals they’re good, though they’re not really a beginner’s pedal. www.speedplay.com / www.i-ride.co.uk
- Weight: 217g (lighter stainless steel and titanium versions are available)
- Cleat: 3 bolt & adaptor, £39.99-£119.99 (15°)
Time RXS First
£59.99


These are designed to be a beginner’s pedal, which makes us wonder why Time have decided to do away with the spring release tension adjustment. They do deliver a lot of float, most coming from the front of the cleat moving in the pedal body, but as the cleat wears, the float becomes a little vague, the release requiring more foot rotation. You can alter the distance between the crank and the cleat by 2.5mm, depending on your shoes, and they’re easy to get into, too, thanks to the hanging angle. Good pedals overall, then, but not really suited to the clipless novice. www.time-sport.com / www.chickencycles.co.uk
- Weight: 272g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £19.99 (10°)
Wellgo R096B
£34.99

This budget offering is a basic but well made pair of pedals featuring needle bearings and sealed cartridge bearings. They’re easily serviced too, but ours felt a little on the stiff side depending on which shoes we mounted the cleats to. Shoes with a slightly flatter sole gave a better feel, but shoes with a more rounded or less stiff sole tended to feel inconsistent and rough on exit. For the money they’re okay, but there are better pedals available for around this price. A great plus for the Wellgos, though, is the extremely cheap cost of replacement cleats. www.wellgo.com.tw / www.i-ride.co.uk
- Weight: 334g
- Cleat: 3 bolt, £6.99 (0, 6, 9°)
What to look for when buying pedals
1 Axle
The axle has to be strong and stiff to ensure safety and efficiency. At 9/16in with 20 threads per inch to fit into a standard crank, it also supports the bearings that carry the pedal body.
2 Seals
Bearings don’t last long if water and road grime get into them. Extra seals are placed on the inside of the axle to try to prevent the ingress of contaminants into the system and increase bearing life.
3 Locking interface
Related articles
This is the main assembly for securing the cleat to the pedal. Usually within the pedal, it can also be built into the cleat, as seen on Speedplay pedals. Most pedals allow you to adjust the force required to enter and exit the mechanism.
4 Cleat support surface
The cleat doesn't just sit on the locking interface and the front of the pedal. It should be supported in the middle of the pedal to provide a solid base to support the shoe and increase foot stability.
This feature is based on an article that was originally published in Cycling Plus magazine.
You can follow BikeRadar on Twitter at twitter.com/bikeradar and on Facebook at facebook.com/BikeRadar.
User Comments
There are 17 comments on this post
Showing 1 - 17 of 17 comments
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neilo23
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 12:37 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
I second the good write up for Time pedals. Apart from a pair of SPDs on my first bike (and on my m§$%*tain bike) I've never used any other pedals (I therefore can't make any comparisons). Although 3 pairs of pedals bought in over 20 years of cycling and all 3 pairs still in working order speaks for itself. And they look the business, too.
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sturmey
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 1:10 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
Can't recommend the Shimano R540's at all. The cleat support plate is plastic and wears down badly in less than 3k miles so that your sole is then in contact with and rubbing against the metal cage of the pedal. And you try getting replacements for them.I did and gave up.Even if you could get them they would be half the price of the pedals.
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Birzzles
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 2:32 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
I use MTB XT770 on my road bike - so shoes are interchangeable and clips on both sides. Cant see the advantage of road cleats. For those that do MTB aswell why bother?
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muffle
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 4:41 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
Birrzzles - the reason why road pedals and cleats are better than MTB ones (on the road) is mainly down to the shoe design - lighter and stiffer and the pedals themselves have a larger contact area which means more power transfer.
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iPete
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 4:54 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
As far as I can tell Shimano shoes are remarkably similar [MO vs RO] and I imagine in most the soles are the same bar the additional rubber. I'm also unable to see how you have more power transfer(?!) over SPD, it all goes into the same crank arms.The reason to go beyond SPD is down to comfort. Road specific won't make you faster.
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Chris+W
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 5:44 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
A stiff-soled mountain bike shoe is equally s efficient as a road shoe and the stiff sole spreads out the pressure so that the contact patch with the pedal is not important - I can ride for 10-12 hours on the road without any foot issues with my carbon-soled Shimano MTB shoes. The fact that I can walk around comfortably when I get off the bike, without looking stupid or falling over, means that MTB shoes win hands down for me, and I don't care about the 100 grams of extra weight on my feet. Only wannabe racers wear road shoes, but almost everyone would be better off in something with a real tread.
As for pedals, Shimano's A520 and A600 are single-sided SPD pedals that don't look out of place on any road bike, and are a similar weight to those listed above. The bearings meet Shimano's usual high quality in this area, the tension is easy to adjust, and they always end up hanging in the same orientation so clipping in as you step on the pedal when pulling away from the lights is very easy.
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waterford123
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 6:36 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
I can ride for 10 - 12 hours on the road! Blimey, I can smell the chaffing from here.
Anyway to put pay to any debate Speedplay zero ss are by far the best. Will fight any one who disagrees, grrrrrrr.
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Hudster
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 9:23 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
If you use mountain bike pedals, then I honestly don't see the point in getting a separate pedal system. Plus you can walk in them.
But then, I now ride flat pedals and 5.10s and much prefer them...
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Eyon
Posted Mon 20 Feb, 9:36 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
Muffle, the theory of power transfer is entirely untrue. Given the same stiffness sole, and same lack-of-movement in the pedal (pedal rock etc) then you can put as much power through the head of a needle as the size of a dustbin lid. If you have flexy soles then the larger area will help, but then again if you have flexy soles then I dare say power transfer isn't your main concern.
I ride Time ATAC carbons on all my bikes, MTB pedals, with super stiff carbon shoes, and never had an issues. I am tempted to buy some Sidi's and use some speedplays, purely because I am a tart and I want to look the business on my bike to make up for the lack of real skill.
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Birzzles
Posted Tue 21 Feb, 10:09 am GMT Flag as inappropriate
I often wonder at roadies in France and Spain in full team colours riding out. It seems essential to look the part there. I used to worry that i did not look like a proper cyclist, but when on the bike people cant see my pedals. As it happens i use road shoes - the specialized ones with the wire closure. They are really lovely compared to my MTB shoes - light and a great fit. But the wire mechanism is suspectible to dirt so i am starting to use my MTB shoes for winter riding of the road bike.
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leejdavies
Posted Tue 21 Feb, 11:35 am GMT Flag as inappropriate
Can't say I've ridden many pedal 'systems' but I have speedplays and they are awesome. I started with MTB shoes and pedals but find the adjustable float has eradicated knee pain I was experiencing on my previous setup.
I don't know why people use anything else, they're double sided so entry is quick and easy, yeah they may be difficult to walk in but so are all road shoes with cleats. If anything the metal plate makes them more durable. Add the cafe stop covers and you're good.
Downside is my first set done busted after 18 months. But trying to sort them now under warranty with speedplay who at present seem to have great customer service. I have been called within a day of contacting them via their site. Impressed.
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velocanman
Posted Wed 22 Feb, 11:36 am GMT Flag as inappropriate
Pretty good writeup, but I also don't recommend the Shimano pedals with the plastic wear surface.As for MTB vs road pedals, to each his own. A roadie is not a poser for riding road pedals. It is a fact that the larger bolt pattern in SPD, Look, and Time cleats better distributes the force to reduce hotspots. Only the stiffest $400 MTB shoes wont have enough flex to notice. MTB shoes do make a lot of sense for touring and commuting or coffee shop rides. But for racing and fast recreational riding I will stick to my Shimano SPD-SLs.
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tenorsaxman
Posted Thu 23 Feb, 8:32 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
I have always used Time pedals after developing problems with the lack of lateral movement with the original Look pedals. I have Time Impact road pedals on my best bike that only comes out on high days & holidays, but on my audax bike doing up to 600 km at a stretch I have found Time Attac xs mountain bike pedals superb. Easy to enter & exit, double sided, good platform, foot held firmly but with easy lateral movement that doesn't feel as if you are merely riding with a worn out cleat.
Equally important is the shoe.As a teenager I rode clips & straps & Campag pedals, with the top quality Crodoni leather shoes & I know all about that feeling of the pedal coming up through your shoe! So here I hope to shock you - a road style shoe for recessed cleats (easy to walk on when needed) from Aldi price £19.99 (NO flex & nowhere near $400....) & still good after 1000s of kilometres, & yes, I do also own extremely expensive modern shoes so I do know the difference! Happy pedaling!
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tenorsaxman
Posted Thu 23 Feb, 8:34 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
I have always used Time pedals after developing problems with the lack of lateral movement with the original Look pedals. I have Time Impact road pedals on my best bike that only comes out on high days & holidays, but on my audax bike doing up to 600 km at a stretch I have found Time Attac xs mountain bike pedals superb. Easy to enter & exit, double sided, good platform, foot held firmly but with easy lateral movement that doesn't feel as if you are merely riding with a worn out cleat.
Equally important is the shoe.As a teenager I rode clips & straps & Campag pedals, with the top quality Crodoni leather shoes & I know all about that feeling of the pedal coming up through your shoe! So here I hope to shock you - a road style shoe for recessed cleats (easy to walk on when needed) from Aldi price £19.99 (NO flex & nowhere near $400....) & still good after 1000s of kilometres, & yes, I do also own extremely expensive modern shoes so I do know the difference! Happy pedaling!
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mike's 1
Posted Fri 24 Feb, 1:00 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
On the strength of the reveiw I bought a pair of carbon Ultegra SPD-SL's (PD-6700-C) to find that the body covers cannot be replaced!
Surprised at the favourable review on the Shimano R540's as, like others have said, the plastic body covers wear away so quickly. Replacements for Ultegra models are about a couple of quid a pair but for very similar pieces of plasic marked 'DuraAce' I have to pay a tenner!
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alfalund
Posted Tue 28 Feb, 8:04 am GMT Flag as inappropriate
Weight here must be exclusive of cleats? As much as I love my Speedplay Zero Stainless, I absolutely hate the stone heavy, big, fat and ugly cleats with their tiny screws that get all messed up at the slightest contact with tarmac. Sic.
So what happened to light pedals/cleats? With low stack height and q-factor. My (now extinct) M2 Racer Orb weighs 99 grams for the pair, plus 50 grams for cleats - now entering their 7th season without any quibbles...
And what about Crank Brothers Eggbeaters for road use, any good? As awesome as they are off road, what is the verdict on road?
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j2ck333
Posted Sat 3 Mar, 9:10 pm GMT Flag as inappropriate
I work in a bike shop and have seen so many of the iclic pedals break and need to be warrantied. dura ace carbon pedals, nice wide surface area, super robust, lightweight, good online price, cheap and well designed cleat. But no feature.....



















