SRAM's Maven brakes are the most powerful it makes, designed to rival Shimano’s Saints, Magura’s MT7s and even Trickstuff’s hugely expensive Direttissimas.
When the Mavens work to their full potential, they're excellent, but they’re notoriously sensitive to any air in the system, and have quickly gained a reputation for being tricky to bleed.
However, with a few bleeds under my belt, I've settled on the best way to get the perfect feel from these impressive brakes.
- Read more: How to bleed SRAM disc brakes | Step-by-step guide to bleeding SRAM road and MTB disc brakes
Tools required
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Safety glasses and protective gloves
- Shop towel/rags
- SRAM-approved mineral oil
- Hex keys (5mm for bleed port screw on the caliper, 3mm to remove disc brake pads)
- Torx key (T10 for the bleed port screw on the lever)
- Torque wrench and relevant sockets (optional)
- SRAM Maven bleed block
- Piston press (or a plastic tyre lever)
- SRAM Maven-compatible bleed kit
Performing the perfect SRAM Maven brake bleed
SRAM's Maven brakes use mineral oil and require a different syringe fitting for each end: a threaded syringe for bleeding the lever and one with a spinning hex to unlock the threaded bleed port for the caliper end.
It’s a clever system, and here is the best bleed process I've found to ensure your Mavens are working as well as possible.
Step 1
If the system has no fluid in, bleed from the caliper (with a full syringe) up to the lever (with an empty syringe), harnessing gravity to make sure the system is full of fluid. Do this by filling the hex-lock syringe and attaching it to the caliper. Then attach the threaded syringe with a minimal amount of fluid in the lever. Push fluid through until the caliper syringe is almost empty and the lever syringe is full. Then lock off the hex syringe at the caliper to seal the system.
Step 2
Now bleed the lever. When the system is filled with fluid, the best way I’ve found to bleed the Mavens is to begin at the lever, leaving the caliper for the moment.
Step 3
When you connect the bleed syringe to the lever, first create a vacuum to remove any air bubbles present at the interface. Only after this, once you can see there is no longer any air being pulled into the syringe, do you create positive pressure with the syringe, pushing oil back into the system. Repeat this process until no more bubbles appear.
Top tip: vibration is your friend, so while bleeding, a combination of tapping the hose and lever, squeezing the brake and winding the bite-point adjuster (if present) in and out is the best way to entice any small bubbles out of the system and into the syringe.
Step 4
Wind the bite-point adjuster all the way out before removing the syringe. This enables maximum space for fluid within the system.
Step 5
Now remove the syringe and catch any excess fluid with a rag. Insert the threaded bung to seal the system. The lever should be bled. Next, head to the caliper.
Step 6
Before bleeding the caliper, take the wheel off the bike, remove the pads and install a bleed spacer between the pistons. This step is not essential, but any spilt fluid on the pads could kill them, so it’s a good security measure.
Step 7
When bleeding the caliper, remove the rubber bung from the bleed port and loosen the bleed-port screw with a 5mm Allen key and tighten gently again before inserting the syringe; this reduces stress from trying to undo a fully tightened bleed port with the hex-lock syringe.
Step 8
Fill the hex-lock syringe half full of mineral oil. Insert the hex-lock syringe and open the bleed port. First, create a vacuum to suck up any bubbles. Then create positive pressure, pushing fluid back into the system. Repeat this step until no more bubbles emerge.
Tip: the angle is key, so when you think you’ve finished bleeding the caliper, unbolt it from the bike and repeat the previous step with the caliper held at different orientations. You may find it possible to remove some extra bubbles of air.
Step 9
When you’ve finished bleeding the caliper (you can no longer pull any air out of the system), before you remove the syringe, create positive pressure within the syringe and only then, close the port simultaneously.
Step 10
Before reinserting the dust bung into the caliper, first roll some paper towel between your fingers to create a point (or small sausage shape) and stick this into the bleed port to absorb any remaining fluid. Reinsert the bung. This helps prevent any fluid from making its way out and over your disc or pads.
Step 11
You can test whether there is air in the system using the brake lever. First, pull the lever once, slowly, then pull it quickly a number of times, then pull it slowly again. If the lever travel stays the same, there is no air present in the system. If the lever throw decreases when you squeeze it quickly, there is air in the system.
Are the SRAM Maven brakes difficult to bleed?
Some brakes are more difficult to bleed, owing to the position of the bleed ports in relation to the highest point on the lever or caliper.
SRAM's Maven brakes are not necessarily more difficult than other mountain bike brakes – they just possess some idiosyncrasies in their bleed process.
Some brakes, such as the Mavens and many Magura models, are more sensitive to small amounts of air in the system than others – meaning even a small amount of air can affect the lever throw, feel and consistency very noticeably.
While this isn’t necessarily a flaw, it can mean more care is needed during bleeding.
