The shop window of bikes and cycling-related components, clothing and accessories is vast and can be dauntingly expensive.
But do you need an aero race bike, deep-section carbon wheels, a pro-level aero helmet and sunglasses, and ultra-stiff road cycling shoes if you’re starting out?
Simon and Warren picked through the items they’d spend their money on if they were starting cycling from scratch again, and listed the things they’d skip in a recent episode of the BikeRadar Podcast.
You can watch the full podcast, but here’s a summary of the products they'd buy if they were getting into road cycling again.
An endurance, all-road or gravel bike
Back in the day, if you wanted to buy a road bike, it was a dumbed-down race bike with narrow tyres and a pro-like ride position. Race bikes can now be separated into lightweight and all-out aero bikes, even if these are both, in general, expensive propositions.
The choice of drop-bar bikes is much wider, though, and we’d choose an endurance bike with a more relaxed position, an all-road bike with even wider tyre clearance or a gravel bike for off-road adventures.
Warren points out that all are much more comfortable and easier to ride. Save buying a race bike for if you get the racing bug.
On Warren's recommended list are the steel Marin Nicasio all-road bike, Ribble CGR 725 and Endurance 725, and alloy Boardman road and gravel bikes, while he highlights the Giant Contend AR for its 38mm tyre clearance and sharp premium looks.
Simon suggests the Canyon Endurace Allroad and Trek Checkpoint ALR gravel bike. He reckons a two-chainring setup is a better bet than the single chainrings more typical of gravel bikes, though.
Spend a little more and carbon frames become an option. Simon recommends the Giant Defy Advanced or Canyon Endurace CF. Warren points out that with the model-year change-over, there will be opportunities to pick a discounted 2026 model-year bike, which may have a similar spec to its 2027-year replacement.
Pedals
Although you can ride with flat pedals, it’s more typical for cyclists to ride clipped in. Learning to use ‘clipless’ pedals can feel daunting at first and it takes time to get used to them, but they enable greater pedalling efficiency.
There’s a choice to be made between two-bolt pedals (the name refers to the number of attachment points on the base of the cycling shoes to screw the cleats to, which mesh with the pedals), which are usually used off-road and three-bolt pedals, which are in general preferred for road use.
Two-bolt pedals work with shoes with a tread, but three-bolt pedals aren’t meant for walking any distance in. They are claimed to provide a firmer attachment between the shoes and the bike, but we doubt the benefit is significant unless you’re thinking of turning pro.
So, Warren says two-bolt is the way to go, although roadie fashion dictates using three-bolt pedals. They’re much easier to use and walk in, and modern gravel shoes don’t look much different from road shoes.
Tyres
Warren singles out tyres as the first thing to upgrade on an off-the-shelf new bike. A quality set of tyres can make a big difference to ride feel, but they’re often where bike makers skimp when speccing new bikes.
Saddle
Saddles are very personal, so if you don’t like the one that’s been chosen for you by the bike brand, try something else out, Simon says. You could visit a bike fitter or see if a shop has test saddles you can borrow, to help you settle on a shape and design.
Handlebars
This is another component we'd suggest you consider changing if the shape or width of handlebar your bike comes with doesn’t feel comfortable. New alloy handlebars are usually relatively inexpensive.
Clothing and accessories
For beginner kit, Simon recommends a trip to Decathlon. But for UK beginner riders, there’s also excellent kit available from brands including Altura, Endura and Madison; there are comparable brands that do the basics well and cheaply in other countries too.
Look for a decent gel pad in cycling shorts and make sure the size is right, Warren counsels. There are lower-priced options from higher-end brands too, such as Sportful, which offer comfort and technical details. Ignore fancy sleeves and aero claims, Simon says.
If you’re buying shoes, make sure they fit comfortably. It’s much more important than a stiff carbon sole or fancy features – there’s no evidence that stiff soles make you faster.
Don’t buy a waterproof jacket unless you’re sure you want to ride in the rain, says Simon. Most people don’t choose to ride when it’s raining, but Warren suggests buying a lower-priced emergency shell jacket you can carry with you just in case you're caught in a downpour.
It’s the same with sunglasses, he adds. There are lower-priced alternatives to the big-name brands the pros wear, from the likes of Madison and Decathlon’s Van Rysel, that perform as well and look good.
Accessories
There’s a collection of other items you’ll need. Simon starts with a mini pump – a high-volume one if your bike has wider tyres. Warren points out that an electric inflator is now an inexpensive alternative.
Then you'll need a saddle bag, with a spare tube, two tyre levers, a multi-tool, a plug kit if you have tubeless tyres and an item you can use as a tyre boot in case your tyre is damaged.
What else? Simon suggests a waterproof phone pouch.
Bike computer
Simon suggests buying a cycling computer from a bigger brand such as Garmin, Wahoo or Hammerhead. It’s not going to wear out quickly or need upgrading; previous-generation models are usually discounted and work just as well.
But Warren points out brands such as Bryton, which are more affordable. You don’t need a bike computer, he says, but he finds they’re a good inspiration to get him out riding and to keep going to hit a round number.
Alternatives are to use an app such as Strava or Komoot on your phone or a smartwatch such as an Apple Watch.
