Trek’s Emonda ALR is the affordable aluminium version of its lightweight climber’s bike, a dainty alternative to the aero dreadnought that is the Madone.
Trek kindly lent me a frameset and I’ve built it up with SRAM RED eTap and some choice finishing kit from Ritchey.
Trek Emonda ALR build and spec
This is pretty close to a dream spec for me Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
I’ve already taken a detailed first look at the Emonda ALR’s frameset which you can read here. Suffice to say, it’s made of metal and it’s a very lovely looking thing. At 1,203g including its hanger, cable guides, bottle-cage bolts and seat collar, it’s also reasonably light.
I chose to build the ALR with SRAM RED eTap because I’ve long wanted to get to know the groupset properly. I love the clean-sheet approach SRAM took when it went wireless and I was hugely impressed when I first tried eTap, but I wanted to spend more time actually using it day-to-day.
I opted for super-low gearing by road standards because experience tells me that I wouldn’t regret it — I’m no gear masher.
Of course, since building this bike, SRAM has launched its updated RED and Force eTap AXS 12-speed groupsets. When the news broke I immediately started feeding the Trek into the nearest woodchipper but then I remembered that the bike industry launching new products doesn’t actually render my current kit unrideable.
Despite the launch of eTap AXS, this still works just fine Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
Incidentally, SRAM doesn’t make a RED direct-mount rim brake, instead it offers the non-series S-900, so that’s what I went with. More on those later…
Finishing kit: Ritchey riches and a hot mess of other things
I chose Ritchey finishing kit because it’s consistently impressed me with its feel and finish.
The Ritchey bars’ swept wing tops are very comfortable, as is the matching bar tape Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
The WCS Carbon Streem bar is particularly nice (and expensive), with slightly swept wing-profile tops that are very comfortable.
The one issue it presented is that I couldn’t figure out a neat way to mount eTap Blip shifters on the tops as I’d originally intended, so I ended up not using them.
The FlexLogic seatpost is similarly attractive and has a flippable head which gives you a wider-than-normal range of setback adjustment.
The Ritchey post gives you a large range of fore-aft adjustment Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
The rest of the build is a bit of a parts bin special, using components I had lying around.
The low-profile Shimano Dura-Ace C24 clinchers are an old favourite, albeit ones that are looking a bit dated with a narrow rim profile. I’ve also mislaid the matching skewers, so the bike is currently wearing a set of FFWD QRs.
Some people just want to watch the world burn Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
The saddle is a Specialized Power which, after many, many miles, I still can’t decide if I prefer over my old love, the Romin. Oh, and I had to have tan-wall tyres, because of course I did.
So yes, it’s a SRAM-equipped bike with Shimano wheels and mismatched accessories. Purists, avert your gaze.
Trek Emonda ALR full specification
Sizes (*tested): 50, 52, 54*, 56, 58 60, 62, 64
Weight: 7.0kg (including pedals, two bottle cages, Garmin out-front mount)
Frame: Emonda ALR Ultralight 300 Series Alpha aluminium, Invisible Weld Technology
Fork: Emonda full carbon
Shifters: SRAM RED eTap
Derailleurs: SRAM RED eTAP
Cranks: SRAM RED 50/34t
Wheelset: Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 C24 clincher
Tyres: Veloflex Master 28mm
Brakes: SRAM S-900 direct-mount
Bar: Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem 40cm
- Bar tape: WCS Race
Stem: Ritchey WCS C220 100mm
Seatpost: WCS Link Carbon FlexLogic seatpost 27.2×350mm
Saddle: Specialized Power
- Pedals: Speedplay Zero Stainless
Accessories: Arundel Stainless bottle cages
Trek Emonda ALR geometry
Head angle: 73.0 degrees
Seat angle: 73.7 degrees
Chainstay length: 410mm
Seat tube: 540mm
Top tube: 543mm
Head tube: 155mm
Bottom bracket drop: 70mm
Why did I choose this bike?
Yes, the Garmin mount is slightly crooked. Deal with it Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
I’ve been boring people about how good aluminium bikes are for a while now, so it felt like it was time to put my (hypothetical) money where my mouth is.
I really liked the Emonda ALR when I reviewed the first generation model a couple of years ago so the news that there was an updated model designed for my beloved direct-mount brakes got me all in a lather.
I cleave naturally to spindly climber’s bikes rather than rolling billboard aero machines. I’m not built for speed on the flat and my weight means I get blown around on deep section rims anyway.
The fact that the Emonda is sold as a frameset (as well as complete bikes) and comes in a gorgeous purple-flip paint option was very much the cherry on top.
Trek Emonda ALR initial setup
Building a bike with eTap was a welcome novelty. With the derailleurs and shifters bolted on, it’s a process that’s more akin to pairing a Bluetooth speaker with your phone than conventional cable routing. Only the rear brake cable needed to be fed through the frame.
With no gear cables, things are kept very neat Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
I did manage to break the tiny support shim that sits behind the front derailleur with what I thought was minimal force, but otherwise it was largely trouble free.
I cut the fork to allow for 30mm of headset spacers and with 20mm under the stem, I haven’t seen fit to move it up or down so far.
My intention was always to take advantage of the clearance the Emonda’s direct-mount brakes offer to fit decent sized tyres, and I’ve been running those lovely 28mm Veloflex Masters at around 60psi front / 70psi rear.
I actually set the bike up with latex tubes initially, but immediately destroyed one through incompetence and latex’s preternatural ability to get trapped by a tyre bead. That leaves me with a butyl tube at the back and latex one up front, a sort of rubbery mullet setup that probably won’t ever catch on.
Emonda ALR ride impressions so far
The Emonda ALR is remarkably light for a metal-framed bike Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
The new ALR is the same taut, lightweight machine I remember and with this dream spec, it’s properly lively. Climbing on a bike as light and stiff as this is a delight and my choice of gearing means I can winch up the nastiest of inclines.
I don’t know if it’s my memory playing tricks or the fact that I now live somewhere with pretty awful roads, but the ride quality isn’t exactly what I was expecting.
The Emonda ALR’s back end is delightfully smooth but the front is firmer than I recall, enough so that on fast descents with a bit of broken tarmac I’ve found myself holding back ever so slightly to maintain composure.
I’m honestly not sure why this is. Was my choice of super-stiff aero bars a mistake? Am I going soft? I need more time to work this out.
I also need to check my hanger alignment because my shifting seems to be very slightly out, but overall the eTap groupset has been a delight so far. The two-paddle shifting is very intuitive and I get on well with the shape of the hoods.
I’m genuinely disappointed with the brakes however. My experience with Shimano and Campagnolo direct-mount calipers has been nothing but positive, but the S-900s feel like a phoned-in afterthought.
I’m really disappointed with SRAM’s lacklustre S-900 calipers Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
Even leaving aside the generic looking finish, a squeeze of the lever produces visible caliper flex and they just don’t have the solidity and modulation of, say, Ultegra direct-mount brakes. I expected better, SRAM.
If it sounds like I’m feeling negative towards the Emonda, don’t get me wrong. It’s a delightful thing and I’m very much looking forward to putting more miles on it.
Trek Emonda ALR upgrades
Shimano wheels on a SRAM bike? No regrets Matthew Allen / Immediate Media
While I’m very fond of the Dura-Ace clinchers, a wider, more modern set of wheels would be an obvious upgrade and could add a smidge more comfort. If I do upgrade, I’ll stick with something fairly low profile as I feel it suits the aesthetic of the bike.
The biggest surprise with my build has been those S-900 brakes. They’re remarkably bad and, in keeping with the parts bin theme, I’m very tempted to swap them for Shimanos, although I’m not certain if the lever pull would be optimal.
Should I mix groupsets? Should I seek out some ridiculous weight weenie specials instead? Let me know your thoughts in the comments.