Wheels built the traditional way by a guy in the bike shop seem to have fallen out of favour. We’re at a loss to explain why. Ultegra hubs are as good as anything you’ll find on wheels at this price, with good seals and angular contact bearings, and the eyeleted Rigida Chrina rims are strong.
Spokes are double butted, except for drive side rear where stronger plain-gauge ones are used to compensate for the greater load. Build quality is excellent. You can have 32 spokes at the rear, although ours had 36. If you’re heavy (90kg plus) or primarily want reliability this makes sense.