Winter weather shouldn’t be any reason to stop riding, but it is important to be aware of how tough these conditions can be on your bike and kit. Thankfully, a few simple and inexpensive precautions can prevent the mud, grit and moisture of winter from taking its toll on your pride and joy.
Follow our simple guide to get your bike ready for the toughest trail conditions – by doing so you could save yourself a whole lot of trouble later on.
- Time: One hour
- Difficulty rating: Medium
- Tools: Anti-seize; pedal wrench / 6mm or 8mm Allen key; 4 and 5mm Allen keys; P-handled Torx T25 key; carbon assembly paste; electrical tape
1. Removing pedals
Many pedals use a 15mm pedal spanner for removal, but there is an increasing trend for Allen key recesses to be used on the pedal axle. If the latter applies to your pedals, a long 6mm or 8mm Allen key makes removal easy. Whichever system your pedals use, the removal process is identical. Whichever pedal you are working on, undo towards the rear wheel – the left pedal has a reverse thread.
2. Check and go
Once the pedals are removed from the cranks, give the threads on the crank arm and the pedal axle a wipe with a lint-free rag. Check for visible signs of damage to the threads that may cause problems when you re-install. Apply a layer of anti-seize to the pedal and crank arm threads. Most manufacturers label pedals ‘left’ or ‘right’ to help prevent confusion as to which one goes where. When you’re reﬁtting, tighten towards the front wheel.
3. Cleat condition
Those of us who ride clipped in will know that cleats take lots of abuse, which goes unnoticed and can cause real headaches if they get stuck in place. To remove them, use an Allen key (usually a 4mm) and undo the bolts anti-clockwise. If the cleats are drastically worn then removal can be trickier – in some cases having to resort to cutting or even drilling the cleats off the shoes. This can damage the sole so avoid letting it get to this stage by periodically checking their condition.
4. Refit or replace
Once you remove your cleats, wipe the threads with a lint-free rag and put anti-seize on the cleat bolts and the threads in the shoe plate. Shoes usually have four bolt holes in the sole plate for a range of adjustment, and despite only using two, it’s worthwhile to anti-seize all four. This can prevent unwanted water making its way into your shoes. If your cleats took a lot of work to remove, then ﬁtting a new set may be a wise move.
5. Seatpost care
Dirt has an innate ability to get into areas where you don’t want it. Your seat tube can often ﬁll up with mud, grit and water which, when combined, can hold your seatpost ﬁrmly in place. This can cause cosmetic damage when you adjust saddle height, and in extreme cases the seatpin can become stuck in place. This is not a good scenario to be in, so every so often remove your seatpost from the bike. Remember: prevention is the cure.
6. Get the grime off
Once your seatpost is out of the bike, wipe as much of the grease, mud, grit and general grime off it as possible, and the same goes for the inside of the seat tube. Apply a layer of anti-seize to the rim of the seat tube and to the lower section of the seatpost. If you have a carbon seatpost or frame, then don’t be tempted to use grease or anti-seize on it; instead, use carbon assembly paste that is speciﬁcally designed for this application.
7. Remove skewers / thru-axles
The axles of your bike perform a vital role in its function yet plenty of people leave theirs untouched for months on end. If you’ve got a quick-release axle then start by pulling it away from the spokes, just as you do when removing your wheels for punctures. Hold one end in place while turning the other end of the skewer anti-clockwise. Eventually the non-levered end will unscrew all the way off. Be careful not to lose the springs that sit at either end of the skewer, though. For thru-axles, different designs remove in different ways but most will simply unthread once the cam at the end of the axle is opened.
8. Stopping things from seizing
Once the skewer/thru-axle has been removed from the wheel, wipe it clean with a rag and apply a fresh coat of anti-seize to the main body. Put a blob on the threaded end of the axle, as this will get spread down the shaft when the skewer passes through the axle and will prevent the threads seizing in place. If you do drop the springs of a quick release axle then remember they ﬁt with the wider section facing outwards from the centre of the skewer.
9. Rotor bolt condition
With your wheels out of the bike you’ve now got the perfect opportunity to check the condition of your disc rotor bolts. If your bike has a six-bolt rotor then use a Torx T25 or appropriate size Allen key to undo the bolts. Once they are out, apply some Locktite to the threads and reﬁt. If it’s a Centerlock rotor, use a cassette removal tool to undo the lockring and apply anti-seize to the splines before reﬁtting, avoiding getting any on the rotor itself.
10. Lubricate those nipples
Wheels get submerged in puddles and mud, so it’s no surprise when a nipple gets stuck in place. Before riding through the winter, take some chain lube and drop a small amount onto the spoke, just above the nipple head. This will run down, coating the spoke threads and helping preventing them from fusing with the nipple. Leave it to soak for a while then wipe off the excess so as not to attract dirt.
11. Chainring bolts
Drivetrain wear is a given consequence of riding bicycles, and at some point you will need to replace a chainring. Wear rates increase during winter, so to remove your chainring bolts you will need a 5mm Allen key/Torx key and a peg spanner. The peg spanner sits holding the rear of the bolt still when you try to undo it from the front. With the spanner in place, turn the bolt anti-clockwise so that the two parts separate.
12. Careful installation
Once a bolt has been removed, clean and anti-seize it ready to reinstall. Removing all the bolts allows you to wipe the chainrings clean of excess dirt that’s built up. When you re-install chainrings, ensure they are mounted the right way round. The text referring to its size is stamped on the inside of each ring. On the outer chainring there is a peg sticking out, which should sit under the crank arm.
13. Prep your frame
Before installing mudguards, protect your frame from the abrasive effects of winter. Dirt can and will get everywhere, especially between frame tubes and gear/ brake cable housing contact points. Head tubes are a particular area to protect. You can use clear adhesive patches or neatly-cut gaffer tape. Although gaffer tape is waterproof, you may ﬁnd it eventually wears through.
14. Be guarded
Some might frown at it – normally for aesthetic reasons – but ﬁtting mudguards/fenders to your bike can help to ensure you and your bike stay cleaner in the worst conditions. Not sure on what ‘guards to get? Here are six of the best on sale.
15. Keep things clean
Some of the best preventative maintenance comes from the moment you end your ride. Try and leave yourself enough time to wash your bike at the end of each ride, and if that’s not possible then at least be sure to lubricate the drivetrain and remove any excess muck or water before you store it.
- Remove cable ties from your fork stanchions because dirt can build up underneath and cause wear. Zip-ties are a great way to measure sag when setting up forks, but remove them straight after it’s done. The scratches and gouges they cause are not good and a zip-tie is a whole lot cheaper to replace than your fork stanchion.
- When installing carbon parts, use carbon assembly compounds to help stop your bars or seatpost slipping. Don’t be tempted to use regular anti-seize or grease.
- Wet weather riding can result in water seeping through the eyelets of your wheel rims. This adds excess weight, perishes rim tape, can seize nipples in place and makes puncture repairs a real mess. Next time you puncture, take the opportunity to wipe any excess moisture out from inside the tyres and rim tape.